GARDEN WORKS: Wake up sleepy head, maple sugar time is here

Emily Catesby Emily Cates

Wake up, wake up! No more excuses for hibernation or procrastination, Springtime is here. Yes, I know I know – it’s still cold and there’s plenty of snow, each flake erasing an equal amount of motivation to be outside in the garden.

But let’s look at the possibilities anyways, since eventually the window of early-springtime activities will close whether we complete them or not. Why not enjoy a taste of spring by making maple syrup? Let’s whet our appetites by taking a look at this delicious task.

Ah, maple syrup – the amber nectar of our beloved maple tree, made from the sparkling, crystal-clear sap that is a delightful Spring tonic on its own. At 40-45 degrees in the daytime and freezing at night, this luminous sap flows from tree wounds and can be collected.

Maple sugaring supplies are super easy to find at hardware stores or online, and YouTube has an amazing amount of helpful how-to videos.

It is extremely important to use clean, food-grade materials for anything that comes in contact with the sap and syrup. Avoiding trees in polluted areas might be a good idea as well. Also, never overload a tree with too many taps. The best advice I can think of is to use recycled materials if possible, be safe, and to have fun!

To collect the sap, I gather containers such as traditional metal sap pails, water jugs, or buckets. Then, with a 5/16th drill bit, I drill a hole slightly upwards about 2-2-½ inches, preferably on the south-facing side of the tree. Depending on the setup, I’ll either hang the pails on the tree by the hooks provided on spiles that are gently hammered in the hole, or I run food-grade tubing to a container set on the ground.

Once there’s enough collected, it’s time to strain it and boil it down. Since I only have a small amount of taps and my wood stove is already running this time of year, I usually evaporate the sap in big pots on the stovetop.

40:1 is a common ratio for sap to syrup, which is quite a lot of work for a small amount of product. Oftentimes, depending on how full my hands are this time of year (and how much of it gets raided by my family or myself!), I’ll make the decision to cook with the sap instead of making syrup. I always try to reserve some to slow-cook a chicken…Delicious!

Large quantities of sap are traditionally steamed off in a sugar house with an evaporator suited for many gallons. (I know folks who make a fire in a barrel on its side with foodservice basins fitted on the top.) The sap boils in the basins and is carefully watched, especially as it thickens. Ladle off any foam and impurities from time to time, adding a drop of cream if it threatens to foam over.

Now it’s down to the nitty-gritty! Tell the kids and pets to wait at a safe distance, and put on a pair of steady hands, because this is hot stuff. When the syrup reaches seven degrees above boiling, or 219 degrees F, it’s ready to carefully strain and pour off into containers. I prefer mason jars, which are handy for canning the syrup. If desired, process in a hot water canner for 10 minutes.

Enjoy maple syrup in as many ways as your imagination allows. How sweet it is to start spring on such a delicious note!

GARDEN WORKS – Distracted gardening: How to cope when you can’t tend to the garden

 

Emily Catesby Emily Cates

Dear readers and garden friends, I’m sure you’re wondering where I’ve been the past few months. Well, I’ve been caring for a family member with a prolonged illness. Truth be told, I haven’t had a chance to write until now. Anyone with their hands full understands it’s not always easy to garden (or write about gardening) when you’re busy!

However, I’ve had plenty of time to think about what to write, and this article is just about that – gardening on the go, when there’s not a lot of time and energy to do so. Let’s take a look at some helpful hints that can get us through the season when we’re unable to be there in the garden as much as we’d like to be. Among a few ideas we’ll explore are mulching, delegating, and preparing for next year.

First of all, always remember that Nature will go on regardless of what we are able to do ourselves. Many noteworthy gardens of times past have been abandoned and rediscovered. Most importantly, it helps to think of ourselves as part of a bigger picture. It’s the bigger picture that can help put things into perspective and not get discouraged.

Even if we don’t get a chance to do anything and the garden goes completely wild, what’s the worst that can happen? Look on the bright side: the land gets to rest. The soil will likely retain a measure of richness. Yes, weeds will grow and form offspring, but can always be removed at a later time. In many cases, the area could simply be mowed over, the soil underneath waiting patiently for future activities.

Countless times this season I’ve found it necessary to take deep breaths and to tell myself, “Begin again.” Remember you are in good company with others throughout all times and realms who could use encouragement. Don’t hesitate to accept assistance if someone offers to help! Oftentimes I’ve found the best memories I’ve had gardening were helping others with their gardens, or when they’ve helped me with mine. The fellowship in such a space outdoors can bring joy to all involved and make each day easier to deal with.

From a practical viewpoint, mulching is one of the best options to keep the soil workable when garden work is on pause. It’s what Nature does on its own, after all. This can be accomplished by living mulches – such as ground-covers and cover crops – or by adding layers of materials such as straw, plain newspaper, untreated cardboard, and the like. Tin roofing, old rugs, and garden fabrics do the job as well (albeit on the unsightly side). Either way, weeds are suppressed and the soil ready to be turned next time it is convenient.

Also, remember that a garden need not be exclusive. If we are unable to work in the garden, then perhaps we could share it with someone else who would also benefit from taking care of it, happy to maintain it and grow some veggies for us and themselves. And if it looks like our garden is a good candidate for becoming a legacy, then what better way than to pass this legacy along to a new generation? What better way to show gratitude to the land that sustains us than to keep it sustained?

Well, thanks for reading. I hope your season is as productive as possible, your harvest happy and abundant. Your feedback is certainly appreciated, so if you have any helpful ideas, hints, and even recipes, feel free to comment on our website or Facebook page – or send us a good old-fashioned letter!

GARDEN WORKS: Livestock and the Garden

How they can benefit each other

Emily Catesby Emily Cates

Usually when most folks think of animals in the garden, it worries them. After all, who wants their veggie patch trampled and eaten, with fresh poop in its place? While I would shudder to think of that as the outcome, it is possible for both garden and livestock to thrive with carefully managed inputs from each other. In this article, we will look at a few small-scale concepts for small animals, and explore the possibilities for anyone who desires to get the best from both worlds, animal and vegetable.

A few keys to this involve timing, choice of crops, choice of animals, appropriate fencing, and shelter. When these are combined in thoughtful proportions, it can be an important part of attaining a measure of sustainability. So to begin our short trip into the world of gardening with and for livestock, let’s look at what could grow well together. As you read this, try to spot the symbiotic cycles that are created- such as the chicken eats the corn, then the manure is used to grow the corn, which feeds the chicken- and so on.

The first example here might really surprise, delight, shock, or disgust you. I’ll mention it here to get it out of the way: Mealworms! Yes, these insects can be conveniently raised in a kitchen or a closet in a plastic set of drawers and fed flour or crushed-up cereal, with a slice of potato as a water source. Not only will poultry delight in eating them, but they are edible for people too and taste nutty and pleasant. As an added bonus, their frass (manure) can be mixed into potting soils or added to the garden as a soil amendment.

Next, we’ll look at birds. Poultry manure is strong stuff; when it’s time to shovel out the chicken coop, I try to make sure it’s mixed with bedding as I incorporate it into the soil, waiting a couple of weeks until planting. Alternatively, the careful use of a movable pen or “chicken tractor” moves the birds to a spot where the birds scratch around, eat weeds and seeds, and contribute their “deposits” to nourish the soil. For added nutrition in the birds’ diet, we could move them to a plot where we grew treats for them like greens, pumpkins, grains, and sunflowers.

Certain types of birds can be let out into a fenced-in garden area in the daytime and closed up safely in a shelter at night. Bantam (miniature) breeds don’t cause as much damage to growing plants in areas in which their presence is desired to control pests. Other birds — such as geese — have been traditionally used to weed unripe strawberries, then moved to another area once the berries are ripe. Orchards and permaculture in particular can benefit from this kind of setup. I’ve seen birds-especially ducks- quite happy when they were able to help themselves to garden leftovers and windfalls.

Rabbit manure is a fine soil amendment in convenient little “pellets.” Bunnies likewise adore (much to our chagrin) all sorts of garden veggies. As long as they are kept away from unintended consumption of the garden, they are an acceptable, adorable companion.

Pigs lend value to the preparation of a garden, though they are oftentimes difficult to contain (especially if they grow up into big pigs) and need sturdy enclosures. Their natural rooting instinct can be harvested and put to good use in tilling up an area or turning a compost pile. Drill some corn kernels into a compost pile and a piggy will happily do some digging to get the rewards. And, of course, they will squeal with delight when handed garden rejects and refuse.

What about goats? Yes, their manure has been responsible for earning a few blue ribbons. Yes, they are good at mowing the lawn in areas that the lawn mower refuses to go. Yes, they eat all those veggies that didn’t quite make the cut. Yes, yes, yes! But my eyes glaze over when I think of the trouble they’ve made throughout the years whenever they’ve escaped their assigned side of the yard, gone to places they weren’t welcome, crashed my garden parties, gnawing on every fruit tree and seedling in sight. I get it why people want goat milk, meat, and manure — I totally do!

And yet, I hesitate to recommend them unless they have either a person who can be their nanny at all daylight hours (unlikely), or a fenced in area they will never, never be able to escape. Or, the garden should be fenced-in accordingly. At any rate, when you get goats you do so at your own risk…don’t say I didn’t warn you!

Happy gardening everyone! I hope you’re all enjoying the summer harvest and all its pleasures. Oh, and if you would like more information about anything in this article and you have access to the Internet, check out a reliably-sourced video on YouTube. If you’d rather read a book, The Encyclopedia of Country Living by the late Carla Emery is one of the best.

GARDEN WORKS: 10 plants you never want in your garden space

Japanese Knotweed – one of ten plants you shouldn’t plant in your garden.

Emily Catesby Emily Cates

No! Don’t do it! If you’re thinking of planting any of the plants in this article in your garden, think again before you make a mistake.

Though it’s certainly a lovely time to be outdoors working in our gardens, our toils could increase a not-so-lovely hundredfold as a consequence of just one indiscretion. This article is meant to prevent that. Read on to examine just ten blunders an unwise gardener could commit.

10. American Plum (Prunus americana). This wonderful tree with delicious fruits will oftentimes freely sucker from its roots and form thickets with occasional thorns. Who wants that in their garden? Plant plums where they can be mowed around, easily pruned, and thoroughly enjoyed.

9. Autumn Olive (and possibly other Elaeagnus spp. including Russian Olive). Shrubs in this family are oftentimes highly-touted as soil-building and edible landscaping plants. However, some of them are also known to be invasive. Mowing around them is an ineffective means of keeping them in check, as birds and other wildlife love the fruit and will spread the seeds. Some sources claim invasiveness is not a problem with this plant in our area, though from observing colonies of Russian Olive nearby in Winslow and China, I have seen first-hand how they can definitely get out of control. If you must have the fruits, then- instead of planting – make friends with someone who already grows it who doesn’t mind sharing.

Chinese Lantern

8. Chinese Lantern (Physalis alkekengi). These cute ornamentals can really take over. No need to plant them; if you’re looking for a few to put in floral arrangements, enough folks have them around to find a bunch someone is willing to part with.

7. Oriental Bittersweet (Celastrus orbiculatus). Don’t. Just don’t.

6. Japanese Knotweed (Fallopia japonica). I grew up with a colony of this intriguing bamboo-like plant in my yard. Thankfully it was contained enough in an out-of-the way spot, but other neighbors were not so fortunate. The super-villain of invasives, I have yet to see it eradicated successfully. (Please let me know if you have!) Though, I might add, knotweed is also regarded as a super-hero by those suffering from Lyme disease who claim to benefit from its medicinal properties. And though this invasive oftentimes forms monocultures and crowds out native plants, at least I can say the “bamboo forest” was a lot of fun to play in as a kid!

5. Hops (Humulus lupulus). I made the mistake of planting this vigorous vine beloved by brewmasters and herbalists in a raised garden bed one year. It took several years thereafter of meticulously digging up each rhizome fragment to get rid of it. Hops is a great plant if given its own space with something to climb on – preferably away from the garden.

4. Horseradish (Armoracia rusticana). It’s one of those plants that is beloved in the kitchen, but hated in the garden. Coexistence is possible, but for best results, plant in an area you can mow around.

3. Comfrey (Symphytum officinale). First, the pros: The plants are full of soil-building nutrients and make some of the best compost tea around. Comfrey likewise makes a good companion plant for orchards. Depending on the cultivar, it is also highly esteemed by herbalists in first-aid salves used externally. However, one must be fully aware of the cons: Comfrey has a lurid reputation for being invasive. Keep it far away from the garden, keep it mowed, and keep it harvested before it goes to seed. And never till or chop the roots, lest it take over
the planet!

2. Nettle (Urtica dioica). I have a love-hate relationship with this plant. While I thoroughly enjoy highly nutritious steamed nettle greens in the springtime and making cordage with the stalk fibers, oh how it stings! No matter how hard I try (with garden gloves, mind you), I just can’t seem to get rid of it. In the meantime, I try to focus on all the good qualities of nettle, and then kick myself every time I brush up against it in the blueberry patch.

1. Blackberry (Rubus spp.). Okay, here’s Number One on my list! Go ahead. Call me a dummy. I deserve it because years ago I planted a row of blackberries in the middle of my garden. What was I thinking?! Now every year since, I have the added task of pulling out multitudes of thorny canes that refuse to go away and jab at me through sturdy work clothes. Thankfully a lot of them have worked their way over to a spot next to the garden where they are tolerated. The original plants and their progeny seem to have slowed down slightly in areas where I persistently attack them with loppers and mowers. But to this very day I regret even liking the taste of blackberries. Let this be a lesson to save others from such pain!

Thanks for reading. If you know of other plants you would like to add to the list, feel free to send a comment on our website or Facebook page. Until next time, happy gardening!

GARDEN WORKS: Is spring really here? Tips for a productive garden this time of year

Emily Catesby Emily Cates

Well, lookie here! Could it be? Why, yes, I think it is! Finally, the moment where I can actually go out to my garden and really feel like I can do something other than twiddle my green thumbs while looking at seed catalogs. The snow has melted in most parts of my lawn, and well-drained areas and raised beds are ready to be worked. And I figure it’s good to get going before the going gets good for the pesky black flies. I’m sure all of us who love to be outdoors can appreciate that, so let’s take a look at a few activities we can do to welcome Springtime. We’ll make sure the soil is ready to work with, and things we can do whether it is or not.

How do we know if the ground is ready to be worked? The soil should have the consistency of a wrung-out sponge when squeezed. If it forms a sticky ball, be patient and wait for the ground to dry out – or you’ll run the risk of damaging the soil structure.

Raised beds have a great advantage this time of year, as they are usually well-drained and ready to be worked before lower-lying areas of the garden. (I dug one up the other day and could’ve planted it if I had time!) I prefer to mulch my raised beds heavily if I get around to it in the fall so that when I dig them up in the spring, they are much easier to work. However, since mulch can hold in the cold, it might be a good idea to move it to the side in early spring until the soil has warmed, and then replace after the bed is planted.

quackgrass

The plots in my garden that I care for are dug exclusively by hand with a spading fork. Of course it would be easier to till with motorized equipment, but I do have weeds like quackgrass that spread by rhizomes.

To chop them into the soil would simply multiply them beyond my management capabilities – more work for me than just digging by hand and meticulously removing as many weeds and roots as I can while preparing a bed. I’ve found that over the years, I have less and less of a quackgrass problem when I carefully dig by hand and mulch – either with living mulches and cover crops such as oats – or straw, cardboard, old wood chips, or black plastic mulch. Now if only my aching back was as pristine….

The best plants for cold weather include kale, spinach, peas, carrots, leeks and other alliums. And don’t forget that trees, shrubs, and vines should be planted while they are still dormant – a ways before most garden plants are ready to plant. As soon as you can dig a hole, you can plant a tree! Don’t wait for it to warm up to do this if at all possible. (See details for the FEDCO Tree Sale below!)

Cold frames, hoop houses, high-tunnels, row covers, and similar items combined with cold-loving plants can really jump-start the season. Be sure to make good use of them if you have them handy.

Oftentimes there is no getting around areas that are slow to warm. North-facing places, especially, are the last to be ready for action. At times, this can cause considerable delay, though there might be a couple of things we can do. Some folks cover the area with a layer of clear plastic to help it heat up. Another possibility is container gardens: just fill large tubs with the planting mix of choice and go from there. Black containers will heat up their contents quicker.

If working the soil and planting is just not an option, it might be good to put some time into preparation, such as building up a compost pile and a mulch heap in a handy place near the garden. Stocking up on soil amendments is never a waste of time, as is clean-up of plant residues from the previous season. Without a doubt, we can find something to do!

Few things get me in the mood for Springtime more than the annual FEDCO Tree Sale. Located on the Hinckley Road, in Clinton, the sale runs Friday and Saturday, May 4 and 5. Be there if you can, you won’t regret checking out their vast assortment of everything you can imagine growing in your garden and the supplies to help you. It’s a lot of fun and a perfect trip to take with family and friends. See you there!

GARDEN WORKS: Gardening from an easy chair

Emily Catesby Emily Cates

Plan your dream garden while it snows

As I type this article, snow is gently and gracefully descending from the sky to my yard. I look out the window, captivated. It’s hard to be inspired to work in the garden when it’s snowing. However, there is a different – and some say as exciting – way to get your green thumb fix, all in the comfort and convenience of a cozy armchair. If snuggling up to a seed catalog comes to mind, then we’re on the same page. What other publications evoke such passion and nostalgia?

Our mailboxes and the cyber world are filled with all kinds of catalogs this time of year, begging for our attention. The glossies have their impossibly perfect pictures of flawless specimens, raising our hopes sky high that our gardens will likewise produce such beauties. One catalog offers what seems an unbelievable deal and another has a coupon for a specified amount of “free” merchandise (or shipping) if the cost of your order reaches a certain total. Another catalog claims unmatched quality and another has varieties that are “exclusive.” And yet another catalog is brimming with full-color photos of rare and endangered varieties that are so unusual you would wonder what planet they were from.

So many choices! So much hype! How can a practical-minded gardener keep it simple and affordable, yet remarkable and pleasant? Here are some hints, I hope they help:

First, I should mention that the best seeds are likely the ones you or your friends and neighbors lovingly saved from last year and thoughtfully maintained. However, when purchased seeds from a catalog are desirable, check the reviews for the seed company. Dave’s Garden and other online forums are oftentimes helpful to sift out the “bad seeds.” Also, make sure their offerings will grow in our cold northern climate. (Some companies actually grow their crops in warmer locations, yet market those varieties as being suitable for northern growers.)

Usually it is possible to tell if they are a “seedy” enterprise or not, especially when their catalog is honest in its descriptions as opposed to inflated hyperbole. Be realistic! A good rule of thumb is to order from a catalog where the seeds were grown in Maine or another location similar to ours. I have always had good results doing business with Maine companies such as Fedco, Johnny’s and Pinetree. Give these guys a try; each is a unique, high-quality seed company that has never disappointed me. All of them offer valuable heirlooms for small gardens as well as worthy commercial varieties for markets. Look for early bird specials, consider group ordering possibilities, and save on shipping by picking up your order whenever practical.

If you are looking for something truly unique that cannot be found anywhere else, read the descriptions carefully. Pay attention to the days to maturity and growing zones. Baker Creek Heirloom Seed Company and Sand Hill Preservation Center are both seed companies I would highly recommend for rare and heirloom varieties. Also check out the Seed Savers Exchange and Territorial Seed Co if you are interested in something different. Happy seed-searching!

GARDEN WORKS – Doctoring Trees: How to help them after a harsh winter

Has winter caused damage to your fruit trees?

Emily Catesby Emily Cates

Are you feeling a little beat up from this winter? I sure am! And from the looks of it, so are a few of my fruit trees and a few more in the woods. While the promise of springtime is certain, it may be a while until it arrives. Until those glorious days arrive, we simply must endure.

Of course, we need not wait idly for springtime; there is plenty to do! And, the more we stay busy, the quicker it will seem to arrive. Look on the bright side: no bugs, scorching heat, or weeds to deal with! Also, the pace is much more relaxed and many activities can be done without as much competition from other chores. In this article, let’s look at something healing we can do in the meantime – giving attention to trees that need some help. After the windstorm last fall and other storms since, we’re sure to find something in our yards that needs TLC.

Sometimes it’s clear how to fix a broken tree, and sometimes it’s not. However you decide to care for them, use clean, sharp tools. Try to resist the urge to use a chainsaw when you can use hand tools, as that rips through branches as opposed to a clean cut. (Can you blame a tree for faring better with precision tools? Would you prefer a surgeon with a chainsaw or a scalpel?) Lop or saw damaged branches neatly to the “collar” from which they grew. When sawing, be sure to cut deeply from the bottom first a bit, then remove the saw and start again from the top side, sawing downward through the limb to eventually meet the cut made underneath. This will prevent tearing of the bark under the limb and damage to the good part of the tree when the limb falls off.

Oh no! What if the trunk of the tree is cracked or split? Some folks have had success from rather heroic efforts involving splinting, tying, cabling, and even duct taping. The sooner a damaged tree is repaired, the better a chance it has of healing. Don’t wait if you can help it. Your peach trees will thank you. Remember, though, not to leave on any items that could hinder the tree after it has healed, such as wire, rods, boards, rope and the like. If a tree is prone to damage, perhaps it needs to be pruned, supported, and fruits thinned. Or maybe it needs a better location, or a different tree altogether….

What if it’s not possible, despite our best efforts and intentions, to save a damaged tree? Well, maybe then it’s time for the chainsaw. Oftentimes a cut tree will sprout up and save itself with a little help. In grafted specimens, cut above the graft if possible and keep only sprouts that are growing above the graft. If this is not feasible, cut down to the part that is least damaged. Some folks insist in coating the wound with Treekote or something similar, but I don’t usually bother and let the tree heal itself. If all that is left is a stump and the tree decides to send up sprouts from the roots or base of the tree, select the most vigorous sprout and remove the rest. This sprout can be used as a rootstock onto which a desired variety can be grafted.

Well, I hope these activities help lessen the sting of a harsh winter and usher in the spirit of springtime. Enjoy the increasing sunshine as much as you can!

GARDEN WORKS: Bored in Wintertime? Read on for the remedy

Winter is upon us!

Emily CatesGARDEN WORKS

by Emily Cates

For a while there, I’d thought Old Man Winter had forgotten us. No such luck! Now that we’re basking in the ice and snow, at least we can be comforted by the thought that the Solstice is behind us and the days will now start to get longer. Would it be a good time to take a respite from garden activities? Perhaps. But what if we’re feeling restless and would rather enjoy the satisfaction from getting things done? Well, then, read on for a few seasonally-appropriate suggestions; this time we’ll focus on a variety of activities, including pruning and tool maintenance.

First of all, though, let’s not forget to mark any trees or shrubs that might get smooshed by the snow plow. Are there specimens that need winter protection? Labels are often lost in the wind and snow, so making a map of ‘what’s there and where’ is always a good idea.

Black-knot fungus

Do you have European plum trees? Now is a fine time to check them for the fungal disease black knot. I have a Stanley plum that gets this every now and then. Trees with this problem will greatly appreciate our attention to this matter. Can we blame them? Black knot literally looks like dried dog poop on a branch, and will eventually spread to other branches if ignored. I’ve found it easier to spot against a backdrop of snowy ground. Prune off and burn or dispose of infected branches, and be sure to disinfect the pruners afterwards.

Speaking of pruning, we can remove dead, diseased, or damaged branches on any trees or shrubs any time of the year. What better time than now?

And when we’re done with our tools, why not clean, oil, and sharpen them so they’ll be in good working order? Uh-oh, is the tool shed a mess? Well, there’s another job for the ‘To Do List’! See how one project can lead to another? Now, that’s an antidote for boredom!

GARDEN WORKS: Making the best of a thaw + great tips for the die-hard greenthumb in winter

Frozen soil is no fun to work, but if there’s just a thin layer of frost, it can be done without unceremoniously slamming the soil with a pick ax.

Emily CatesGARDEN WORKS

by Emily Cates

Freeze and thaw, freeze and thaw. Such is the character of the ground this time of year. While the thought of gardening is iffy at best (without season extenders, that is), a determined gardener can still work in the dirt if the opportunity presents itself between freezes. Outrageous? Perhaps, though there are times when it is necessary to work up until the very last moment. Let’s explore the possibilities so we can make the best of these moments.

In this article, we’ll look at hand tilling, mulching, and a few potential candidates for planting. Frozen soil is no fun to work, but if there’s just a thin layer of frost, it can be done without unceremoniously slamming the soil with a pick ax. Afternoon is the best time to attempt. Forget using a rototiller though – it’s not good for the soil structure when the ground is in such a condition. By digging small beds or plots by hand with a digging fork, the possibility of last-minute plantings may be achieved. (And, wait! Don’t overlook the stragglers patiently waiting for your attention. Think dandelion coffee, mallow tea, sweet carrots, and more!) Your back and shoulders will resent this, but your garlic will appreciate it.

While the soil is in an exposed state, let’s plant and/or mulch it right away. Mulching frozen soil will hold in the cold, so we’ll try to do this at the warmest point possible in the afternoon. The cast of characters available for mulching can include straw, shredded aged leaves, pine needles, old sawdust, plain newsprint, untreated cardboard, old rugs, or blankets… you get the drift.

What in the world would anyone in their right mind be planting at such a time of year? Well, it’s a great time for working with dormant trees, shrubs, vines, bulbs, and perennials. These can be dug up, divided, potted up, moved, and/or planted. (Case in point: A friend was disappointed that she did not get a chance to plant her garlic on time, but when there was a December thaw, she seized the moment. Come harvest time the next summer, she dug up some beautiful garlic!) A huge advantage of late fall planting of trees and shrubs is that you only have to keep the soil around them moist up until the ground freezes, and then that’s it! So, water generously at planting time, and that might be all that is needed if the ground freezes soon afterward.

Speaking of planting, think about houseplants for a moment. Do they need fresh soil and bigger pots? Well, go ahead, then, and have at it. Happy, healthy houseplants = happy, healthy homeowner.

If these ideas don’t scratch that itch on your green thumbs, I don’t know what will! Ah, now, on to the seed catalogs that just arrived….

GARDEN WORKS: It’s Tree Time! – Autumn tree planting = Success

Emily CatesGARDEN WORKS

by Emily Cates

Many folks are surprised to learn that autumn is a good time for planting trees. Once a good frost has arrived and trees drop their leaves, it’s a sign that “Tree Time” has begun! To make this event a success, let’s keep a few things in mind. The following suggestions apply not only to trees, but also to shrubs, vines, and other hardy plants.

Good planting candidates should be dormant, young, and small enough to move without too much bother. (A larger-sized plant will be easier to move if it was root-pruned last season by a sharp spade plunged into the radius of soil around it.) Try to get as many roots as reasonably possible. If the roots must be pruned, cut away areas that are damaged in the process, and remember to proportionately trim branches from the top of the tree.

All right, now it’s time to plant, preferably into an already-prepared, rock-free, planting hole which was dug with more than enough room for the roots. Special emphasis should be placed on the width of the planting hole, with enough vertical depth to accommodate an equal depth to which the plant resided previously. Be sure to work loose any compacted areas in the hole. Grafted specimens can be planted with the graft at or under soil level if it is desirable for the scion to form its own roots.

Many folks are surprised to learn that autumn is a good time for planting trees. Internet photo

Careful placement of the tree and back-filling of the soil is done best when the roots are evenly spread out. If a root does not fit, do not bend it back towards the tree. Either proportionately prune the root and top, or widen the planting hole. A huge success factor is the amount of water added at this time. Don’t be afraid to make a soupy mess, the tree will love you for it! As the soil is back-filled, water adequately to the point of saturation. Gently wiggle the tree back and forth to get rid of air bubbles. Pack the soil down gently when finished back-filling, and add a nice, thick layer of mulch to keep weeds at bay and to conserve moisture. Old rotted hay or aged sawdust are good choices. Whatever is used, it should be pulled away from the base of the tree. Hold off on fertilizers at this time, but be sure to keep the soil around the tree well-watered, to the point of saturation. Check every day or two by poking around the soil, adding enough moisture, doing so until the ground freezes. This is perhaps the most important aspect of fall planting. After all, this is the moisture that will carry the plant through from freeze to thaw.

To help prevent sun scald from the winter sun, apply a coat of interior latex paint applied from the base to several inches above the snow-line. Wrapping smaller trees, shrubs, and vines with a collar of tin foil (removed in Springtime) will accomplish this and also deter uninvited four-footed, furry guests from munching away all our hard work. While we’re at it, let’s make sure to mark our plants so that the snow plow driver or Aunt Maybelle sees them.

Now it’s tea time! What better way to plant a tree than with a spot of tea?