How they can benefit each other

by Emily Cates

Usually when most folks think of animals in the garden, it worries them. After all, who wants their veggie patch trampled and eaten, with fresh poop in its place? While I would shudder to think of that as the outcome, it is possible for both garden and livestock to thrive with carefully managed inputs from each other. In this article, we will look at a few small-scale concepts for small animals, and explore the possibilities for anyone who desires to get the best from both worlds, animal and vegetable.

A few keys to this involve timing, choice of crops, choice of animals, appropriate fencing, and shelter. When these are combined in thoughtful proportions, it can be an important part of attaining a measure of sustainability. So to begin our short trip into the world of gardening with and for livestock, let’s look at what could grow well together. As you read this, try to spot the symbiotic cycles that are created- such as the chicken eats the corn, then the manure is used to grow the corn, which feeds the chicken- and so on.

The first example here might really surprise, delight, shock, or disgust you. I’ll mention it here to get it out of the way: Mealworms! Yes, these insects can be conveniently raised in a kitchen or a closet in a plastic set of drawers and fed flour or crushed-up cereal, with a slice of potato as a water source. Not only will poultry delight in eating them, but they are edible for people too and taste nutty and pleasant. As an added bonus, their frass (manure) can be mixed into potting soils or added to the garden as a soil amendment.

Next, we’ll look at birds. Poultry manure is strong stuff; when it’s time to shovel out the chicken coop, I try to make sure it’s mixed with bedding as I incorporate it into the soil, waiting a couple of weeks until planting. Alternatively, the careful use of a movable pen or “chicken tractor” moves the birds to a spot where the birds scratch around, eat weeds and seeds, and contribute their “deposits” to nourish the soil. For added nutrition in the birds’ diet, we could move them to a plot where we grew treats for them like greens, pumpkins, grains, and sunflowers.

Certain types of birds can be let out into a fenced-in garden area in the daytime and closed up safely in a shelter at night. Bantam (miniature) breeds don’t cause as much damage to growing plants in areas in which their presence is desired to control pests. Other birds — such as geese — have been traditionally used to weed unripe strawberries, then moved to another area once the berries are ripe. Orchards and permaculture in particular can benefit from this kind of setup. I’ve seen birds-especially ducks- quite happy when they were able to help themselves to garden leftovers and windfalls.

Rabbit manure is a fine soil amendment in convenient little “pellets.” Bunnies likewise adore (much to our chagrin) all sorts of garden veggies. As long as they are kept away from unintended consumption of the garden, they are an acceptable, adorable companion.

Pigs lend value to the preparation of a garden, though they are oftentimes difficult to contain (especially if they grow up into big pigs) and need sturdy enclosures. Their natural rooting instinct can be harvested and put to good use in tilling up an area or turning a compost pile. Drill some corn kernels into a compost pile and a piggy will happily do some digging to get the rewards. And, of course, they will squeal with delight when handed garden rejects and refuse.

What about goats? Yes, their manure has been responsible for earning a few blue ribbons. Yes, they are good at mowing the lawn in areas that the lawn mower refuses to go. Yes, they eat all those veggies that didn’t quite make the cut. Yes, yes, yes! But my eyes glaze over when I think of the trouble they’ve made throughout the years whenever they’ve escaped their assigned side of the yard, gone to places they weren’t welcome, crashed my garden parties, gnawing on every fruit tree and seedling in sight. I get it why people want goat milk, meat, and manure — I totally do!

And yet, I hesitate to recommend them unless they have either a person who can be their nanny at all daylight hours (unlikely), or a fenced in area they will never, never be able to escape. Or, the garden should be fenced-in accordingly. At any rate, when you get goats you do so at your own risk…don’t say I didn’t warn you!

Happy gardening everyone! I hope you’re all enjoying the summer harvest and all its pleasures. Oh, and if you would like more information about anything in this article and you have access to the Internet, check out a reliably-sourced video on YouTube. If you’d rather read a book, The Encyclopedia of Country Living by the late Carla Emery is one of the best.

by Emily Cates

Well, lookie here! Could it be? Why, yes, I think it is! Finally, the moment where I can actually go out to my garden and really feel like I can do something other than twiddle my green thumbs while looking at seed catalogs. The snow has melted in most parts of my lawn, and well-drained areas and raised beds are ready to be worked. And I figure it’s good to get going before the going gets good for the pesky black flies. I’m sure all of us who love to be outdoors can appreciate that, so let’s take a look at a few activities we can do to welcome Springtime. We’ll make sure the soil is ready to work with, and things we can do whether it is or not.

How do we know if the ground is ready to be worked? The soil should have the consistency of a wrung-out sponge when squeezed. If it forms a sticky ball, be patient and wait for the ground to dry out – or you’ll run the risk of damaging the soil structure.

Raised beds have a great advantage this time of year, as they are usually well-drained and ready to be worked before lower-lying areas of the garden. (I dug one up the other day and could’ve planted it if I had time!) I prefer to mulch my raised beds heavily if I get around to it in the fall so that when I dig them up in the spring, they are much easier to work. However, since mulch can hold in the cold, it might be a good idea to move it to the side in early spring until the soil has warmed, and then replace after the bed is planted.

quackgrass

The plots in my garden that I care for are dug exclusively by hand with a spading fork. Of course it would be easier to till with motorized equipment, but I do have weeds like quackgrass that spread by rhizomes.

To chop them into the soil would simply multiply them beyond my management capabilities – more work for me than just digging by hand and meticulously removing as many weeds and roots as I can while preparing a bed. I’ve found that over the years, I have less and less of a quackgrass problem when I carefully dig by hand and mulch – either with living mulches and cover crops such as oats – or straw, cardboard, old wood chips, or black plastic mulch. Now if only my aching back was as pristine….

The best plants for cold weather include kale, spinach, peas, carrots, leeks and other alliums. And don’t forget that trees, shrubs, and vines should be planted while they are still dormant – a ways before most garden plants are ready to plant. As soon as you can dig a hole, you can plant a tree! Don’t wait for it to warm up to do this if at all possible. (See details for the FEDCO Tree Sale below!)

Cold frames, hoop houses, high-tunnels, row covers, and similar items combined with cold-loving plants can really jump-start the season. Be sure to make good use of them if you have them handy.

Oftentimes there is no getting around areas that are slow to warm. North-facing places, especially, are the last to be ready for action. At times, this can cause considerable delay, though there might be a couple of things we can do. Some folks cover the area with a layer of clear plastic to help it heat up. Another possibility is container gardens: just fill large tubs with the planting mix of choice and go from there. Black containers will heat up their contents quicker.

If working the soil and planting is just not an option, it might be good to put some time into preparation, such as building up a compost pile and a mulch heap in a handy place near the garden. Stocking up on soil amendments is never a waste of time, as is clean-up of plant residues from the previous season. Without a doubt, we can find something to do!

Few things get me in the mood for Springtime more than the annual FEDCO Tree Sale. Located on the Hinckley Road, in Clinton, the sale runs Friday and Saturday, May 4 and 5. Be there if you can, you won’t regret checking out their vast assortment of everything you can imagine growing in your garden and the supplies to help you. It’s a lot of fun and a perfect trip to take with family and friends. See you there!

Has winter caused damage to your fruit trees?

by Emily Cates

Are you feeling a little beat up from this winter? I sure am! And from the looks of it, so are a few of my fruit trees and a few more in the woods. While the promise of springtime is certain, it may be a while until it arrives. Until those glorious days arrive, we simply must endure.

Of course, we need not wait idly for springtime; there is plenty to do! And, the more we stay busy, the quicker it will seem to arrive. Look on the bright side: no bugs, scorching heat, or weeds to deal with! Also, the pace is much more relaxed and many activities can be done without as much competition from other chores. In this article, let’s look at something healing we can do in the meantime – giving attention to trees that need some help. After the windstorm last fall and other storms since, we’re sure to find something in our yards that needs TLC.

Sometimes it’s clear how to fix a broken tree, and sometimes it’s not. However you decide to care for them, use clean, sharp tools. Try to resist the urge to use a chainsaw when you can use hand tools, as that rips through branches as opposed to a clean cut. (Can you blame a tree for faring better with precision tools? Would you prefer a surgeon with a chainsaw or a scalpel?) Lop or saw damaged branches neatly to the “collar” from which they grew. When sawing, be sure to cut deeply from the bottom first a bit, then remove the saw and start again from the top side, sawing downward through the limb to eventually meet the cut made underneath. This will prevent tearing of the bark under the limb and damage to the good part of the tree when the limb falls off.

Oh no! What if the trunk of the tree is cracked or split? Some folks have had success from rather heroic efforts involving splinting, tying, cabling, and even duct taping. The sooner a damaged tree is repaired, the better a chance it has of healing. Don’t wait if you can help it. Your peach trees will thank you. Remember, though, not to leave on any items that could hinder the tree after it has healed, such as wire, rods, boards, rope and the like. If a tree is prone to damage, perhaps it needs to be pruned, supported, and fruits thinned. Or maybe it needs a better location, or a different tree altogether….

What if it’s not possible, despite our best efforts and intentions, to save a damaged tree? Well, maybe then it’s time for the chainsaw. Oftentimes a cut tree will sprout up and save itself with a little help. In grafted specimens, cut above the graft if possible and keep only sprouts that are growing above the graft. If this is not feasible, cut down to the part that is least damaged. Some folks insist in coating the wound with Treekote or something similar, but I don’t usually bother and let the tree heal itself. If all that is left is a stump and the tree decides to send up sprouts from the roots or base of the tree, select the most vigorous sprout and remove the rest. This sprout can be used as a rootstock onto which a desired variety can be grafted.

Well, I hope these activities help lessen the sting of a harsh winter and usher in the spirit of springtime. Enjoy the increasing sunshine as much as you can!

Frozen soil is no fun to work, but if there’s just a thin layer of frost, it can be done without unceremoniously slamming the soil with a pick ax.

GARDEN WORKS

by Emily Cates

Freeze and thaw, freeze and thaw. Such is the character of the ground this time of year. While the thought of gardening is iffy at best (without season extenders, that is), a determined gardener can still work in the dirt if the opportunity presents itself between freezes. Outrageous? Perhaps, though there are times when it is necessary to work up until the very last moment. Let’s explore the possibilities so we can make the best of these moments.

In this article, we’ll look at hand tilling, mulching, and a few potential candidates for planting. Frozen soil is no fun to work, but if there’s just a thin layer of frost, it can be done without unceremoniously slamming the soil with a pick ax. Afternoon is the best time to attempt. Forget using a rototiller though – it’s not good for the soil structure when the ground is in such a condition. By digging small beds or plots by hand with a digging fork, the possibility of last-minute plantings may be achieved. (And, wait! Don’t overlook the stragglers patiently waiting for your attention. Think dandelion coffee, mallow tea, sweet carrots, and more!) Your back and shoulders will resent this, but your garlic will appreciate it.

While the soil is in an exposed state, let’s plant and/or mulch it right away. Mulching frozen soil will hold in the cold, so we’ll try to do this at the warmest point possible in the afternoon. The cast of characters available for mulching can include straw, shredded aged leaves, pine needles, old sawdust, plain newsprint, untreated cardboard, old rugs, or blankets… you get the drift.

What in the world would anyone in their right mind be planting at such a time of year? Well, it’s a great time for working with dormant trees, shrubs, vines, bulbs, and perennials. These can be dug up, divided, potted up, moved, and/or planted. (Case in point: A friend was disappointed that she did not get a chance to plant her garlic on time, but when there was a December thaw, she seized the moment. Come harvest time the next summer, she dug up some beautiful garlic!) A huge advantage of late fall planting of trees and shrubs is that you only have to keep the soil around them moist up until the ground freezes, and then that’s it! So, water generously at planting time, and that might be all that is needed if the ground freezes soon afterward.

Speaking of planting, think about houseplants for a moment. Do they need fresh soil and bigger pots? Well, go ahead, then, and have at it. Happy, healthy houseplants = happy, healthy homeowner.

If these ideas don’t scratch that itch on your green thumbs, I don’t know what will! Ah, now, on to the seed catalogs that just arrived….

GARDEN WORKS

by Emily Cates

This one is for all tin-foil hat enthusiasts, and gardeners too. If you like tin foil, this one’s for you! When winter blasts the ground with her frozen air, critters are tempted to strip a young tree bare. But do not fret — no, do not cry — for aluminum foil could be the best answer your pennies can buy!

Lest I be labeled a lunatic, there is a little light to be shed on this seemingly ludicrous proposal. Folks who grow various trees, vines, and shrubs have always known that these, when young, are susceptible to damage from rodents, rabbits, and other rascals in the wintertime. I’ve even lost a few trees myself because I didn’t wrap them in time.

Whenever the ground starts to freeze — and especially when it snows – you can be sure the feast will begin! First a bite here, then a nibble there, and before long, the whole trunk is girdled, ensuring a certain demise. Really, it’s not a question of if- it’s a matter of when it will happen. If your young trees get through the winter unscathed, then my hat’s off to you! The rest of us, though, will just have to settle with one more chore before the snow flies. Let’s find out why I’m so crazy about wrapping the trunks of young trees in tin foil.

I should note it’s not actually my idea; my mother-in-law from Germany told me her father would wrap his saplings with aluminum to protect them in wintertime. He got the idea from his father-in-law who was the Kaiser’s master gardener… so I am assuming that if this idea is good enough for a king, it’s worth sharing with you.

Yes, I will admit that you can go to a garden store and buy aesthetically-pleasing tree guards. Go ahead if it makes you feel better! I’d hate for my schemes to spoil the ambiance of your garden space. But if you’re looking for something radical and recyclable (and oh-so 50s galactic-retro), you’re in the right place.

Anyways, after all this banter, the application is refreshingly simple: Just get out a roll of foil and wrap a couple layers on the trunks of the specimens you wish to protect. The thicker the foil, the fewer layers that are needed. Mold it around snugly from the base at ground level to the anticipated snowline. That’s it! Remember to remove and recycle in springtime, and marvel at the heroic level of protection a humble roll of aluminum foil provides!