by Jude Hsiang

We are in the week of Jack O’ Lanterns, and folks are dressing and decorating with orange, black, purple, and acid green. In two months our color scheme may be reds, whites, and greens. If we plan now, we can have some exciting flowers to brighten the house for the holidays and beyond.

Amaryllis are large bulbs that produce dramatic flower stalks towering up to two feet tall. The bulbs are often available already potted, so growing these plants is easy. Look for large bulbs, which may be five inches in diameter. If the bulb isn’t already potted, choose a pot that is about twice the size of the bulb. Place the bulb in enough soil-less potting mix to allow about a third of the bulb to be above the surface but sitting low enough so that the pot won’t overflow when you water it. Place it in a sunny window and water well to settle the bulb and encourage the roots to become active. Keep the potting mix moist but don’t let it get soggy. If the top two inches of mix are dry, it’s time to water.

The large, strong leaves and stalks will emerge, then the flower buds. When you see the buds, move the plant to a spot that’s a little cooler and out of direct sunlight. This allows the amaryllis to still receive light for photosynthesis and will also make the flowers last longer.

Those huge, trumpet-like flowers come in reds, pinks, and white. Some are a blend of shades, and some are “double” having more petals. The plant will provide a long-lasting display as several large flowers bloom one after the other. As the flowers fade, clip them off to prevent them forming seeds, because you can keep an amaryllis bulb alive to bloom again and again for years.

The leaves and stalk should be left to provide energy to the bulb until they yellow (just as with daffodils). Then you can remove them and put the plant back in a sunny window. Continue to water it regularly and give it a monthly feed of a houseplant fertilizer according to the directions on the package. After the danger of frost, the amaryllis can spend the summer outdoors. Place it in a spot with filtered sun and gradually move it to an area that gets at least 6 hours of sun a day. Continue to feed and water until there is a threat of frost.

Amaryllis need to be set in a cool, dark place for a dormant period of eight to 12 weeks to rest before blooming again. Cut off the leaves as they yellow and don’t water the plant. Check it occasionally and if you see new growth move it to a sunny window. If it hasn’t begun to regrow in three months, you can force it by watering thoroughly and keeping it in a sunny window. Start the regular feeding and watering the plant again and flowers should appear in a few weeks. It’s fun to experience these large vibrant flowers blooming again at the darkest time of the year.

Sometimes waxed amaryllis bulbs are sold with a wire inserted to form a base at the bottom of the bulb so they can grow without being potted or watered. The wax covering may be red or green. It’s like having a china figurine on the shelf that suddenly produces extravagant flowers. People typically throw out waxed bulb when the flowering is over, but you can scrape off the wax, remove the wire base, and treat the bulb like a normal amaryllis. Worth a try? Maybe, but the “old fashioned” way of keeping the bulbs is probably more likely to succeed and provides a lot of pizzazz for a little care.

© Judith Chute Hsiang
Jude Hsiang is a retired Extension Master Gardener instructor and member of the China Community Garden.

by Jude Hsiang

At the end of the gardening season, we are looking back to the beginning. All the way back to January with seeds we saved in 2024, the arrival of seed catalogs, and our hopes, resolutions, and plans for the new season.

As the days lengthened, we started seeds and watched them germinate, selecting the most vigorous little plants to nurture. When we were confident the last frost had passed and the time had come to plant the tender seedlings in the garden, we began to “count our chickens,” or at least imagine how many jars of pickles and tomatoes that would take their place on the pantry shelves.

Then spring brought a repetition of rainy weekends. We counted them – or tried not to! – in frustration. Sowing some crops was delayed. Others were drowning and had to be replaced in hopes there would still be enough time for them to mature. Suddenly, the cycle ended. We began to hear the word drought. We had spotty rainfall over the summer. There were even occasional downpours of three inches in some places, while the gardens of nearby friends only saw a half inch. It was so frustrating to see rain clouds on the horizon only to watch them pass by.

It’s been reported that the drought currently affecting central Maine, and beyond, is the worst in 20 years. The likelihood of enough rain to make up for the loss in the near future doesn’t look good. Some folk’s wells are dry, and others fear it could happen to them. We hope we’ll get enough snow over the winter to replace the groundwater we are losing.

In the meanwhile, gardeners have been using what water they can to keep important plants alive. Fall planting plans have been abandoned.

Fall is usually the best time for starting or repairing lawns. It’s also usually the best time to plant trees and shrubs. Although we can get early frosts that damage some tender growth in September, the killing frosts are more likely to be seen in October. Some of us have had severe frosts depending on the microclimates of our locations, others are still harvesting vegetables and seeing the occasional rose blooming. While colder weather arrives, the soil cools more slowly and steadily, allowing the roots of woody plants to continue taking up water and nutrients until the ground freezes.

This fall will be a time to set aside some plans until next year as we hope for “normal” weather. Perhaps we’ll be thinking about reducing the size of the thirsty lawn and increasing the number of more drought-tolerant plants. They’ll be happy in a wetter year and manage just fine when the next dry year comes. We gardeners are naturally optimistic, but we can also make small changes to a better future.

© Judith Chute Hsiang
Jude Hsiang is a retired Extension Master Gardener instructor and member of the China Community Garden.

by Jude Hsiang

We still have warm days ahead making preparing our gardens and yards for winter easier. Doing a few chores over the next couple of weeks will make a big difference come spring.

The soil cools down slowly in the fall, and roots are active until the soil temperature reaches 40 degrees. This means that any woody plants or perennials will appreciate any rain we are fortunate to receive. In our current drought conditions, remember to give special attention to recently planted trees and shrubs to help them as they adapt to winter dormancy. Flowering perennials and other smaller plants like berries and groundcovers are still in need of water.

For some of us, last week’s cold weather brought frost, and we are already clearing the vegetable gardens of affected plants. A little housekeeping work in the vegetable garden now will mean starting next spring with fewer weeds and pests that could overwinter in the soil. As you remove dead garden plants, it will be easier to see any perennial weeds like dandelions and tough grasses you might have missed earlier.

With the soil cleared or roots, now is a great time to have it tested, especially if this hasn’t been done in several years. Soil laboratories aren’t quite as busy at this time of year, which means your results will be returned faster than if you wait until spring. If the results indicate that some amendment or fertilizing is needed, you have time to plan. Having the soil tested has another benefit – you may find that you really don’t need some treatments you’d planned and can save money. The University of Maine offers several types of tests to choose from depending on what you are growing. Home – Analytical Lab and Maine Soil Testing Service – University of Maine

In the flower garden, the fall routine depends on the level of neatness you want. In the past, people tended to remove all annual plants that had stopped blooming. However, those plants may be producing seeds that some birds will appreciate whether they need energy for their long migration journeys or will be spending the winter with us. Perennials, too, can offer food for the birds. In addition, lots of insects spend the winter in the soil or leaf litter and most of them are good neighbors. You can do a little research in a good gardening book or online at a university or other science-based site to learn more about how to help Nature by letting the flower garden look a little less tidy.

You can also help our birds and beneficial insects by adding more native plants to your garden and yard. Some of these plants can be added in the fall or winter. See the WildSeedProject.net, Maine’s excellent native plant organization, for the seeds collected by dedicated volunteers and step by step directions for planting, Fall is the ideal planting time for these plants that will grow easily through the winter. Future meals for our good bugs and feathered friends. Beautiful natives for our landscapes

© Judith Chute Hsiang
Jude Hsiang is a retired Extension Master Gardener instructor and member of the China Community Garden.

by Jude Hsiang

In the last half of the 20th century gardeners typically bought seeds from catalogs and store displays. This convenience separated us from the experience of saving seeds from our own gardens and many of us lack the agricultural knowledge that our ancestors had used for thousands of years. Recently, many people have returned to saving seeds, sharing them with fellow gardeners and even developing their own special varieties of favorite plants.

Many books have been published and seed saving organizations have been created as a result of this renewed interest. Locally, seed libraries like the one at the Albert Church Brown Library in China Village, have provided a way for neighbors to share extra seeds, save money, and try new varieties. Maine’s own seed companies have also contributed their extras to seed libraries and to the University of Maine Extension’s Master Gardeners and 4-H members, ensuring access to garden plants that were successful in trials for the varieties best adapted to our growing conditions.

As fall approaches we can look around the garden for those plants that have been especially healthy and productive, as well as old or new favorites. Peas, beans, tomatoes, peppers, and members of the cucurbit family – cucumbers, squashes – are the easiest candidates for seed saving. A bit of knowledge about plant reproduction is needed, but not a great deal. Avoid using seeds from hybrids, often found in commercial seed – hope you’ve saved the packets for that information! – because they will have a mix of characteristics from cross-pollination and are unlikely to resemble the plants you choose, and some may not even germinate. If you have grown several varieties of winter squash, for example, they may have been cross-pollinated by insects, and the result is unpredictable. People who want to keep and improve on one type of squash will therefore make sure they are isolated from other kinds. The best choices for seed savers are self- or open-pollinated varieties, of the referred to as heirlooms, like Brandywine tomatoes or Blue Lake beans.

Peas and beans provide the easiest seeds to save. Just let the pods of a few of your plants mature and dry on the plant, then collect the seeds to store in a cool dry place over the winter. Pepper seeds are easy too. Allow the peppers to stay on the plant until they are overripe and shriveling a bit then collect and store the seeds.

Winter squash seeds can be collected when the outer rind is hard. Let summer squash keep growing past the time for eating until the rind dries and treat it like winter squash. Scoop out the seeds, wash and dry them for storage.

Tomatoes should be allowed to become fully ripe, just like you’d want them for eating. Cucumbers should be left on the vine until they start to get yellow, then harvested and set aside safe from critters for another three weeks. Tomato and cucumber seeds are coated in a gel and need a little more attention. Fermentation, which can get a little stinky, will result in nice healthy seeds. Put the mass of seeds and pulp in a container and add a similar amount of water, then set it in a warm location, but not in direct sunlight. Stir once or twice a day, and the good seeds will sink to the bottom. Pulp, mold, and bad seeds will rise to the surface. After 5 days remove the stuff at the top and thoroughly rinse the good seeds at the bottom. Spread them out on a plate and set them in a warm place to dry for a couple of weeks. This little bit of work will provide you with free seeds of your favorite tomatoes for

Don’t forget to label your seeds!

The flower garden can be a source of free seeds, too. Marigolds are especially easy as their seeds are easy to spot. Some flowers, like some vegetables, are biennial and need two years to produce seeds. A little research at your library or online can give you information on growing more flowers for free.

Modern seed saving has moved out of the garden. In Maine, the Wild Seed Project sells seeds for native trees, vines, grasses, and flowers that are collected by volunteers. The group provides detailed planting information and help in choosing “the right plant in the right place” so we can bring more of our beautiful native plants home to our yards.

© Judith Chute Hsiang
Jude Hsiang Is a retired Extension Master Gardener instructor and member of the China Community Garden.

by Jude Hsiang

When Joseph Houlton arrived in Aroostook County in 1807, he brought along a variety of potato called Early Blue. Only a few decades later the potato had become an important crop with Maine producing 10 million bushels a year by the 1940s.

In addition to the potatoes, Aroostook land provided the cedar, elm, and ash used to make the barrels that were used to harvest the crop: 12-peck barrels held 165 pounds. For decades schoolchildren helped with the harvest. As a little girl in southwestern Maine, I was jealous of my “big boy” cousins in Presque Isle who started school early, then joined the three week “Harvest Break” to earn money on the potato harvest. This tradition remains despite the mechanization of the harvest that continues to advance.

Many of us remember the excitement and pride when traveling far beyond Maine and spotting one of the blue, white, and red Bangor and Aroostook Railway cars whose sides proudly proclaimed, “State of Maine Products.”

Even though Maine’s share of the worldwide potato market has decreased it is still an important art of the state’s economy. In addition to producing potatoes for our tables, Maine provides seed potatoes for the U.S. east coast. Potato starch has always been a key product, and the recent increase in interest in gluten-free foods has in turn increased its use for home cooks, restaurants and prepared food items. Almost one half of Maine’s potatoes are used for French fries and another 20 percent for potato chips.

It’s difficult to imagine what the diet of Europeans and later North Americans was like before the introduction of the potato. Bread was their everyday source of starch, and although they grew wheat, oats, rye, and barley, for many people those grains can’t compare to the wide array of recipes for potatoes. There are hundreds of dishes that use this staple food, and cooks continue to come up with more variations.

One more family story. After the attack on Pearl Harbor in 1941, my father enlisted in the U.S. Army along with many thousands of young men. He was part of a contingent sent from Maine to Mississippi for basic training. During that period the mess hall served grits for breakfast and rice for lunch and supper. Dad recalled the glum faces of “the Maine boys” when lining up for yet another meal with no potatoes.

Enjoy the freedom to choose your favorite potato dish, grown in your own central Maine garden, or upcountry.

(See part 1 here.)

© Judith Chute Hsiang
Jude Hsiang Is a retired Extension Master Gardener instructor and member of the China Community Garden.