MAINE-LY GARDENING: What’s in the garden? Corn!

by Jude Hsiang

Mid-summer cookouts will feature a wealth of garden produce: green salads with tomatoes, watermelon, and, of course, corn on the cob. Even the most confirmed meat eater looks forward to this special summer treat.

We New Englanders are waiting for this season’s local sweet corn as we see corn in local groceries that was grown in Georgia, then Virginia, then New Jersey. It may remind us that the corn we know began as a grass in South America. The first people practicing agriculture, some 9,000 years ago, selected the largest seeds to grind for food and to plant. Eventually what we know as corn or maize developed and were traded from groups of peoples eventually reaching well into North America.

Over time the size of the ears grew and with more modern selection, different varieties were developed. We still have what was commonly known as “Indian Corn” which retained the ability to produce multicolored kernels. Corn as animal feed is now the most important crop economically and, by weight, is the largest of all grain crops worldwide. But for most folks, corn means sweet corn for eating off the cob, canned or frozen, or ground into meal for baking. And don’t forget popcorn!

This year’s wet spring delayed planting in the Central and Northeastern states. From large farms growing corn for animal feed to backyard gardeners looking forward to a small plot of sweet corn, the weather continues to cause concern. What is a summer barbeque without buttery sweet corn?

Because corn is a grass, pollination occurs by wind, not with the aid of insect pollinators. Home gardeners plant corn in square or rectangular plots rather than one lone row so that the pollen grains can easily be blown among the plants, moving from the seed-bearing tassels to the young ears where each stand of silk will catch and carry the pollen down into the ear to fertilize a kernel. When plucking the annoying silk from an ear of corn, remember that one single strand of silk was responsible for each one of the hundreds of tasty kernels.

While we Mainers wait for the arrival of sweet corn – from our garden or from the local farmers’ market – let’s recall the thousands of years and miles this summer treat traveled to reach our plates.

© Judith Chute Hsiang
Jude Hsiang Is a retired Extension Master Gardener instructor and member of the China Community Garden.

MAINE-LY GARDENING: What’s in the garden? Tomatoes

Tomatoes

by Jude Hsiang

Six months ago, when gardeners began to dream of summer and pour over seed catalogs, tomatoes were at the top of many wish lists. Now those gardeners are tending their plants and watching as the little yellow flowers begin to develop into what the botanists call berries, but most of us think of as vegetables. Salads, soups, pastas, pizzas…what other plant offers so many delicious possibilities?

Tomatoes have such a prominent place on our tables and in our pantries that we sometimes forget that these plants originated in South America. When tomatoes were first brought back to Europe by early explorers, many people were skeptical of stories that people actually ate them. After all, the flowers revealed that tomatoes are part of the nightshade family, so it’s not surprising that they were first grown as ornamental plants in Europe. Other members of the nightshade family include potatoes, peppers, eggplant, even petunias and tobacco. When tomatoes were first introduced to China, people called them “foreign eggplants” as they also recognized that the flowers looked like those of that familiar native plant.

As agriculture became big business over the last hundred years and improved transportation meant tomatoes could be shipped over thousands of miles in days or hours. The focus was on quantity, uniformity, and ease of shipping that sometimes outweighed taste.

More recently, gardeners have sought out “heirloom” varieties of tomatoes, as well as other foods, which were developed in small farms and backyard gardens. These types might have special qualities of taste or uses that make them more desirable than the “one-size-fits-all” tomatoes that were trucked to our supermarkets from far away farms. Heirloom tomatoes like Brandywine, a favorite for its sweetness, have the advantage that their seeds can be saved for the following year’s crop, unlike hybrid tomatoes that don’t reliably produce the same characteristics. And heirloom tomato varieties can be interesting colors when ripe, including orange, green, and purple.

Modern tomatoes come in a wide variety of shapes, sizes, colors, and uses. Some gardeners grow one type, perhaps the large juicy “beefsteaks” that provide nice big slices for BLTs. Other folks, with larger gardens and appetites, grow several kinds, and enjoy experimenting with different varieties each year.

What sort of tomatoes to grow? There are the typical red, round, “globes” for all around goodness – smaller than the big beefsteaks. Paste, or Roma tomatoes are great for sauces and canning. Smaller cherry, grape, or pear tomatoes are especially nice in salads, and some varieties are orange or yellow instead of the familiar bright red. These are especially fun for kids to grow and eat.

Tomato plants are perennials in their original tropical homelands, and it can be fun to grow long vines over years in a heated greenhouse. For most gardeners, the choice may be between smaller “determinate” plant types which are smaller, bushier, and produce a lot of fruits over a shorter time. Or they may want an “indeterminate” vining type that takes more room but continues to produce until frost. The University of Maine Cooperative Extension suggests tomatoes of the various kinds that do best in our climate. Whichever kind you may be growing or buying this season, try a few others from a farm stand, farmers market, or a friend’s garden. You may discover a variety or two that you’ll want to grow next year.

© Judith Chute Hsiang
Jude Hsiang Is a retired Extension Master Gardener instructor and member of the China Community Garden.

MAINE-LY GARDENING: What’s in the garden? Beans

by Jude Hsiang

Beans are so easy to grow. The littlest gardeners can plant them and see them come up quickly. There are so many varieties and ways to serve them that it’s no wonder that lots of gardeners grow several types: for eating freshly picked through the season; freezing or canning for winter; or storing as dry beans for soups and other favorite meals.

Beans can be planted as soon as danger of frost is over, or you can also start them inside to get a little jump on the season. It’s not too late to plant some now as beans only take two months or a bit more to mature. Planting a row every two to three weeks will ensure plenty for summer meals without overwhelming the gardener. When the production of the earliest plants begins to slow down, you can pull them out and replace them with other crops that will mature quickly, like radishes, lettuces, and greens.

Both bush or pole types have their merits. If you are short on space, pole beans will grow vertically on a trellis – you can rig one with sticks and string – and produce for a longer time. Bush beans take more space but tend to produce over a shorter time span.

Whether yellow or green, beans grown to be harvested fresh are sometimes called string beans or sometimes snap beans because when ripe they snap when bent. If they get away from you and begin to show bulging beans in the pods, you may not find them tasty, but you can let them dry on the plant and save them for soup in the future.

Reliable information on safely freezing or canning beans – and other garden produce – can be found through the University of Maine Cooperative Extension. Recipes, too.

There are so many varieties of beans that it can be hard to decide which to choose. The Extension makes suggestions for Maine gardens, and family members and friends may have favorites. In addition to your favorite ways of preparing beans, you may want to learn which varieties are particularly good for saving as seeds for the following year. Seed swaps and seed libraries are great ways to share extras and try new types at no cost.

You may want to add beans that are decorative as well as good tasting. Scarlet Runner beans with their bold red flowers are fun to grow on a trellis at the back of the garden or planted among flowering vines. Cherokee Trail of Tears beans – descended from beans saved by the Cherokee people who were forced off their land in 1838 – have lavender flowers and purplish pods. Like many purple vegetables, the pods will turn green when cooked, but they are still pretty plants. I grow them every year because I love the shiny black dried beans and save some seeds for next year.

Not as widely grown here as string beans are fava or broad beans. They can be planted much earlier than snap beans – as soon as the soil can be worked, like peas – and their sturdy stems produce side shoots that can be harvested for dinner while you wait for their pretty white flowers with black spots to produce big, thick pods. All parts of the plant make good eating, even the flowers.

The nutritional value of beans is well established. Our ancestors didn’t know that eating a meal that combines beans with rice, pasta, potatoes or other carbohydrates in combination gives us the proteins found in meats, but they knew the results were satisfying. Saturday night baked beans or festival bean hole beans are part of New England cultural tradition. Let’s grow beans!

© Judith Chute Hsiang
Jude Hsiang is a retired Extension Master Gardener instructor and member of the China Community Garden Committee.

MAINE-LY GARDENING: What’s in the Garden? Greens!

by Jude Hsiang

Some of the first local foods to enjoy each year are greens, which come from a variety of plants. Many of us have been enjoying a variety of leafy greens from our gardens for weeks now. If you missed the opportunity to plant them from February through April this year, some of these vegetables can be planted later in summer for fall crops. If you are fortunate enough to have a greenhouse, even an unheated one, your growing season will last from late winter until well into fall. Both the University of Maine Extension Service and the Maine Organic Farmers & Gardeners Association have compiled planting schedules to help gardeners learn when to start seeds indoors for transplanting or to plant directly outside as spring advances. And there are lots of herbs to grow in small pots in the house for year-round use.

Children may dislike the healthy leafy greens they are urged to eat because they are more sensitive to strong or bitter flavors. But as we grow up, we find a little arugula or radicchio gives a pleasant tang to a salad. We may discover that with the right preparation or seasoning, spinach, kale, mustard greens and other strong-tasting greens join the list of seasonal treats we look forward to every year.

Beyond the familiar greens we grow or buy, like the many types of lettuce and leafy greens that quickly come to mind, there are some other available vegetables to add to the menu. We grow beets and radishes for the roots but might forget that their leaves are edible and delicious. When thinning a crowded row of tiny plants, we can save those little leaves to add to all sorts of dishes. While the roots are maturing, just sip off a few leaves from time to time. When it comes time to harvest beets remember that the tops provide a tasty dish. Radish will enhance a clear or vegetable soup. Fava beans, and some other varieties, tend to develop side shoots. While the main stem is producing the beans the tender shoots can be gathered for cooking. Pea shoots are tasty, too, and as peas are an early season plant, the shoots can be sniped as main production begins to slow.

Other vegetables may already show up in the garden as we water and weed. Lamb’s quarters, usually thought of as a weed, are so tasty that many people allow them to grow among the planted vegetables for a while, then harvest them to cook before they get large, woody and compete for nutrients with the things planted on purpose. Lamb’s quarters stir fried with garlic is delicious, milder than spinach, and free.

Among the other greens that nature provides are fiddleheads. When foraging it’s important to get permission to collect them on public and private land. Maine has many ferns species, and some can look a bit like the ostrich ferns that we eat. Learning to recognize fiddleheads is not hard, but it’s important to collect the edible ones. As with any wild plant, leaving plenty for future growth is vital.

Ramps are another spring delight if you know where to look and are careful to avoid over harvesting them. If you have the right conditions, you can purchase seeds or plants for your yard, but it’s important to be confident that the seller is harvesting them ethically. Once they’re successfully established, you will want to allow them to spread naturally so you can enjoy some every year.

Enjoy the early greens while waiting for more delicious locally grown foods that are coming our way.

© Judith Chute Hsiang
Jude Hsiang Is a retired Extension Master Gardener instructor and member of the China Community Garden.

MAINE-LY GARDENING: An invitation to garden

Winterberry

by Jude Hsiang

Are you thinking about starting a garden? Here are a few things to think about before planting.

Start small. Maybe a few pots of favorite flowers, herbs, or one cherry tomato. You can start with a few little plants at a garden center, get a few free seeds at a seed library, or extras from a friend. Gardening should be enjoyable, even if you are doing it to save some money, get a little exercise, or brighten up your yard. Don’t let yourself be tempted to till up the yard, invest in lots of tools, or keep up with Farmer Jones. You may find that you are too busy with work or family responsibilities to care for more living things. And don’t be ashamed to admit that you really don’t like gardening. You tried and it’s just not for you, but there are Farmers Markets, farm stands, and locally grown produce at more and more grocery stores and supermarkets. And there are other ways for you to help neighbors in need and support a healthy environment.

On the other hand, maybe you really do want to garden. Many people got the gardening urge during the pandemic, just as others took up painting or baking sourdough bread. And lots of those folks are still involved in those activities. Are you a bit envious of a friend’s flower bed, or uncle’s Bob’s homegrown tomato sauce? It’s time to make some plans.

If you have a yard, is there enough sun for a garden? At least 6 hours a day during the summer months will do. Is there easy access to water? Again, start small. Next year you can expand on what’s worked well and try a few more things. Your University of Maine Extension’s website has a wealth of information on getting started from knowing your soil, specific varieties for our area, preserving food, to caring for trees. Take advantage of the free, science-based experience available from these professionals who love to share their knowledge.

In addition to these experts, you probably already know some folks who love to share tips, extra baby plants they’ve started from seed—something you might want to do someday—or their prize-winning pickle recipe. There may be a community garden in your area. For a small fee you can use a manageable sized garden bed, share tools, and make friends with people you’ve only seen in passing at the post office. If you have a week’s vacation scheduled, another garden member will water your little plot in return for your help later on.

Grow things you like. Allergic to tomatoes? Don’t like kale? Marigolds don’t come in your favorite color? Don’t plant them. There are so many choices that picking what to start with can be overwhelming, but beans are easy to grow, so are zinnias. Just grow something! You’ll (probably) be glad you did. Whatever the summer brings, something good will be found in a garden, why not yours?

© Judith Chute Hsiang
Jude Hsiang Is a retired Extension Master Gardener instructor and member of the China Community Garden.

MAINE-LY GARDENING: Annuals, biennials, perennials, oh my!

Marigolds

by Jude Hsiang

Terms for plants used by growers and botanists can be confusing. If a plant is labeled “annual” we might think that it will return every year like an annual canoe race. But annual plants live for only one growing season. They grow from seed, flower, form new seeds, then die. Those new seeds will germinate and become next year’s plants if they are lucky enough to drop into a place with the right conditions and the weather is favorable.

Peony

Here in Central Maine, the little plants we buy at garden centers and other shops, whether flowers like marigolds, or vegetables like tomatoes, will be killed by the first heavy frost. But they often grow well enough through the warmer months to develop seeds.

Many gardeners collect and save seeds of annuals by keeping them dry and cool to sow for the following year. (Note: seeds from hybrid plants are often not like the parent plant.) With space to start the new seeds in the right conditions you can save money that would have been spent on buying seeds year after year. The right conditions vary for different plants. Some may require a period of very cold temperature called stratification. Some very tiny seeds must be placed on top of the planting mix as they will only germinate with light and warmth. Researching the needs of any seeds, from annual flowers to cactus to trees, will reward you with the satisfaction of seeing the baby plants grow under your watchful gaze.

A garden designer friend tells of seeing T-shirts saying, “Friends don’t let friends buy annuals.” She disagrees, because even though annuals like begonias and petunias only live for one season, they are especially useful to fill in spots between other plants that will eventually grow quite large. You can experiment with color by trying different annuals to see if their color will fit in with the long-range garden plan.

Biennial plants like foxgloves and hollyhocks live for two years but only produce roots, stems, and leaves in their first season. They die down to the ground then reappear the following spring when they produce their flowers and seeds.

After this display, biennials die, but often self-seed in the garden. Many of these seeds need a cold spell and will go on to enhance the garden for many years through their succeeding generations.

Perennial plants often become the mainstays of flower gardens. They are more expensive to purchase because they take several years to grow from tiny seedlings to a size that assures the gardener that they are large and healthy enough to transplant into the garden. Peonies, hostas, and irises are a few of the many perennial plants that will live for years, even decades. Eventually, they can become so large that they crowd other plants. That’s a bonus because you can divide them into several smaller clumps to plant in another part of the garden or share them with friends. When adding perennials to your garden learn how to divide them and whether it’s done in spring or fall depending on the species.

Members of garden clubs and other groups often share plants from their home gardens through plant swaps or fundraising sales. Look for these events in May and June for a great way to find beautiful new plants for your garden at lower cost while supporting a favorite cause.

© Judith Chute Hsiang
Jude Hsiang Is a retired Extension Master Gardener instructor and member of the China Community Garden.

MAINE-LY GARDENING: Flowering shrubs for Central Maine – summer into fall

Panicle hydrangeas

by Jude Hsiang

After considering some spring flowering shrubs we’ll be enjoying soon, let’s think about shrubs that will provide us with floral displays during the coming months. Previously I wrote about the big-leaf hydrangeas because the correct time for pruning – if needed at all – depends on when the leaves appear on the stems that can look like dead sticks. Many people have learned the hard way to wait for the leaves to appear before assuming the stems are dead. The result is few or no flowers because the flower buds had been formed in the previous fall.

There are other species of Hydrangeas that are less confusing. The large panicle hydrangeas are very cold-tolerant shrubs we see thriving well north of us. They are named for their cone-shaped flower clusters – panicles – which open white (or even pale lime green, then change to rosy shades as the weather cools. The flowers can then be clipped off in fall, allowed to dry for long-lasting arrangements, or just left on the plant all winter. If punning is necessary – and it may never be needed – it’s best done in late winter-early spring because the new flower buds will be formed in spring.

Climbing hydrangeas can be grown on a trellis or against a tree. They will grow to be quite large – up to 50 feet – so they will need some planning before planting. Another easy-care plant, this vine doesn’t need pruning unless it begins to grow to large, when winter or early spring is best.

Oakleaf hydrangeas are another larger shrub maturing to be wide and rounded, unlike the taller panicle species. They are named for the large, toothed leaves reminiscent of oak leaves. Unlike the species mentioned previously which originated in East Asia, they are native to the southeast of us. Generally white flowered, some varieties have pink to red-pink flowers in their large clusters. In recent years smaller oakleaf varieties have come on the market making them more easily used in smaller spaces. Like the hydrangeas mentioned in this article, they can be pruned in late winter, should they ever need it.

One more type of hydrangea that is easily grown in our area is the smooth hydrangea which is native to the East Coast from southern New York and further south. Their care is similar to the other hydrangeas in this article. There is such a wide range of hydrangea species, with new varieties being introduced to the nursery trade, that almost any garden can host one or more.

Hydrangeas take center stage in summer, but several other native shrubs whose flowers are easily ignored can have a place in the garden. The famous Maine lowbush blueberries that carpet the barrens have taller cousins that make good additions to the garden. Different named varieties produce the fruit at different times over the summer so by planting several of them, we can have a long blueberry season. Of course, we have competition from the birds who love them so much that they don’t even wait until the berries are ripe. If fruit is the most important reason for having these native shrubs, you may need to use bird proof netting, available at garden centers. If the netting is simply draped over the plants, birds will sit on the net and reach right through to grab the berries. But if you are willing to share, high bush blueberries will reward you with some of the fruit and beautiful red fall foliage.

Another native shrub to consider is winterberry. The red berries appeal to us for their beauty, and they aren’t high on the list of favorites of most birds either. We usually see them in wet areas like the edge of a pond or swamp, but they will do fine in average garden soil, too. Winterberries are part of the holly genus and most members of the group have separate female and male plants. Horticulturalists routinely give them names according to their gender, like the male known Jim Dandy. Another characteristic of winterberries is that there are some varieties found in our northern area, while others are common further south. For best results, a knowledgeable nursery or garden center will guide you in purchasing a pair, for more, of plants that will guarantee lots of berries on your female winterberries.

There is another native shrub that is a fun addition if you have a wet area in your yard. You may have seen button bushes with their spikey, round white flowers that look like sputniks. They can grow right at the water’s edge and surprise visitors to your garden.

© Judith Chute Hsiang
Jude Hsiang Is a retired Extension Master Gardener instructor and member of the China Community Garden.

MAINE-LY GARDENING: Flowering shrubs for central Maine springtime – part 2

Rhododendrons (left), hydrangeas (right)

by Jude Hsiang

Rhododendrons are popular shrubs that require little care once properly planted and established. They thrive in New England’s acid soil and prefer light shade, conditions many of us can provide. There are over one thousand species and include azaleas. Most are native to Asia, but there are several North American species. As they have a wide range of mature sizes and flower colors, some are evergreen and some deciduous. Some varieties are very fragrant.

Like other shrubs I’m writing about, rhododendrons don’t need much pruning if planted in a spot that allows them to grow naturally. They need good drainage so avoid wet areas. As with any woody plants, the most important things to be aware of when thinking of pruning are broken stems or any stems that cross and rub against each other which can allow disease to enter.

Pruning to control the size is best done in the spring after the flowers fade. This will allow the plant to recover and set new flower buds for the following spring.

If a rhododendron has gotten too large for the space where it was planted or has a neglected appearance it can be pruned in winter when it’s dormant. Just realize that the flower buds might be cut off and you’ll have to wait another year for flowers.

The azaleas are sometimes less tolerant of our cold winters, they can still be a beautiful addition to our gardens. A good nursery or garden center will be able to make suggestions for our area.

Although they won’t bloom until summer, hydrangeas are another group of flowering shrubs to think about now. Unlike rhododendrons, they don’t mind a little wetter spot, but all are deciduous. They also need protection from strong summer sun. Because there are several species with different appearances and needs, there can be confusion about them.

The “big leaf” hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla) are rounded shrubs that often have clusters of blue flowers here in New England. The color is due to our acid soil. Small potted hydrangeas are often sold around Mothers Day in flower color choices ranging from pink to lavender-to-blue according to how it was raised in the nursery. If that small potted plant is then moved outside to the garden, the pink or purple flowers will eventually be blue as the plant adapts to our soil.

To add to the confusion, there are varieties of these hydrangeas that naturally have white, or pink-to-red flowers. And there are “lace cap” types with a mass of tiny flowers surrounded by a border of larger flat blossoms.

All of these big leaf hydrangeas produce their flower buds during the previous year, so if they are pruned in spring all of the flower buds will be lost. If you want to prune, wait until you see the new green leaves and buds appearing on the straight brown stems in the spring. Then it’s safe to cut back a bit or remove old dead stems.

If your yard could use a little color, a rhododendron or hydrangea or two, may be the answer. Of course, there are a lot of other beautiful shrubs to consider.

(See part 1 here.)

© Judith Chute Hsiang
Jude Hsiang is a retired Extension Master Gardener instructor and member of the China Community Garden.

MAINE-LY GARDENING: Flowering shrubs for Central Maine springtime – Part I

by Jude Hsiang

While the daffodils and crocuses are just poking their green noses out of the soil, forsythia begin to bloom. This shrub is a favorite just because the little neon yellow flowers cover the long stems as we are becoming even more tired of snow and mud. Some people prune forsythia into balls and hedges, which it will tolerate, but it wants to grow into a fountain shape. Those long stems will root if they touch the ground and, in a few years, can become a jungle of crisscrossing square branches with small leaves. It’s not the most beautiful shrub for most of the year, but it shouts, “Welcome Spring!”

For many New Englanders spring means lilacs. They’ve been grown here for centuries and with their preference for a more alkaline soil than our native plants, are often found around long abandoned cellar holes nourished by a bit of limestone. In a range of lavenders—some reddish, some more blue—and crisp white, lilacs with their lovely fragrance are one of our “must haves.”

In addition to the common lilacs, which is a direct translation of their scientific name Syringa vulgaris, we can also plant Korean lilacs which are a little smaller in every respect. These re especially useful for smaller spaces. They don’t usually have the same rich perfume, but some varieties will re-bloom a little later during the season which is a plus for some gardeners. Lilacs should be pruned within a couple of weeks after the flowers fade, to assure a bounty in the following year. Just clip off all the flower clusters, or if the plants are getting to tall to reach easily, or covering the windows, cut them further back. Lilacs will sprout all around the base of the main shrub, and those sprouts can be dug and transplanted.

Another group of shrubs for our area are the Viburnums. There are several species and a wide range of cultivars available. Some have a strong sweet fragrance: others almost none. Some bear their flowers in “snowballs” and others have tiny clusters of flowers of more interest to insects but produce berries that attract birds. Most viburnums have white flowers but there are some pink varieties, and many have good red fall foliage. You can choose from rounded shrubs that might only reach six feet, or small trees whose branches are covered with flat blossoms and stretch out in layers. Viburnums rarely need pruning, but if they are becoming too large, it’s best to prune right after flowering, like lilacs.

These three groups of flowering shrubs are hardy and need little care after proper planting and appropriate watering in their first two years. They are mostly pest-free, except for four species of viburnum that can defoliated by an invasive beetle. A good nursery or garden center will help you avoid purchasing one of these species: V. dentatum (arrowwood viburnum, V. nudum, (smooth withered), V. opulus, (European cranberry), V. opulus ssp. trilobum, (.American cranberry). There are lots of other fine viburnums to choose from.

These fine shrubs will provide decades of beauty with very little attention so why not add one or more this spring?

In my next article I’ll cover flowering shrubs for summer and beyond, including some favorite natives.

© Judith Chute Hsiang
Jude Hsiang is a retired Extension Master Gardener instructor and member of the China Community Garden Project.

MAINE-LY GARDENING: It’s not too early to be looking at your lawn

by Jude Hsiang

Between snowstorms and several mud seasons, we’re beginning to see a few signs of spring. Spring will bring warm weather, bird song, wildflowers, and, for many of us, lawncare.

Americans are said to be great lovers of lawns although this love affair is only about a century old. Before that time, while many people might have a nice patch of grass in front of the house along with a few shrubs and a flower bed, maintaining a lawn required significant work. When lawn mowers replaced scythes, it was possible to have a large well-tended lawn like the wealthy folks with hired help, who in turn emulated the greenswards of Merry Old England.

Our fondness for lawns originated in England, France, and neighboring countries with milder temperatures and wetter weather than most of the U.S. Those who study turf grasses say that Maine is luckier than other parts of our country because those grasses, brought here by the European settlers, tolerate our weather and soil quite well. The diseases and pests of turf grass are less of a problem here than further south or west.

Many people feel that having a lawn is part of the American Dream of home ownership and that keeping up with the examples of neighbors, or the requirements of a Homeowners Association, is just part of the package. One person really takes pride in a healthy, well-kept lawn and will admit to enjoying the mowing, weeding. Their neighbor grudgingly hires a lawn service and hopes the results are worth the money. And some people have been wondering why we spend so much money and effort to raise plants we don’t eat.

Our university’s soil laboratory offers tests used to assure we can have right nutrients for lawns or other crops. You can then avoid buying products that could be unnecessary or even make a problem worse. We lucky folks who live among wonderful lakes, ponds, and rivers can be confident we aren’t contributing to water problems.

Weeds are a common complaint. White clover is often considered a weed, but years ago consumers paid more for lawn seed mixes that included it. Its nitrogen-fixing ability encourages healthy grass growth, and it supports pollinators. Of course, people allergic to bee stings would avoid planting it.

Some weeds can diagnose a potential lawn problem. Plantains can signal too much fertilizer. Japanese knotweed and spotted spurge like dry, compacted areas. Dry, sandy spots attract purslane. Wild strawberries do fine in dry acid soil and outcompete lawn grass.

Moss annoys many lawn lovers. It thrives in shade, compacted soil, poor drainage, low fertility, poor air circulation. You can try moss-killing chemicals, moss will return if the conditions are better for it than for grass.

Bare spots in sunny areas may be home to the larvae of Japanese beetles. Cut into and peel back a patch and you may see their fat white grubs curled just under the grass. In early July the adult beetles emerge and feed on many plants. Japanese beetle traps are sold, but research has shown that the traps attract many more beetles than the traps hold and those will stay in your yard. You can pick the beetles off your plants and drop them into a can of water with a few drops of dish detergent on the surface to keep them from escaping. Chickens & ducks love to eat them!

© Judith Chute Hsiang
Jude Hsiang is a retired Extension Master Gardener instructor and member of the China Community Garden Project.