by Roland D. Hallee

Last week, a friend of mine texted me with the photo of a cricket-like bug for identification. Before I could get back to him, he ID it as a katydid. A few days later, I saw one hanging on the screen door at camp. It had been a while since I had seen one.

Katydids are a family of insects related to grasshoppers and crickets. They’re also called bush crickets or long-horned grasshoppers in some regions. There are more than 6,000 types of katydids, and they’re found on every continent except for Antarctica. The vast majority of katydid species live in the tropical regions of the world. For example, the Amazon basin rain forest is home to over 2,000 species of katydids. However, katydids are found in the cool, dry temperate regions, as well, with about 255 species in North America.

Most types of katydids are green and have markings to help them blend in with leaves and other foliage. Like crickets and grasshoppers, they have long back legs to help them jump. They can rub their front wings together to make a loud ka-ty-did song that gives them their name. Some katydid songs, however, are at too high a frequency for human ears to hear.

Katydids are usually considered gentle insects that aren’t harmful to humans. Some people consider them garden pests; however, they usually don’t cause serious damage to your plants or vegetables. The Common Garden Katydid is a quite common backyard buddy and garden visitor.

Many people even keep them as pets. In rare cases, larger types of katydid may pinch or bite if they feel threatened. Their bite is unlikely to break your skin and likely won’t be any more painful than a mosquito bite. You’re very unlikely to get bitten unless you’re handling them with your bare hands. It’s extremely unlikely that the bite will need medical attention. You can wash the area with soap and water and apply a cold compress if you have pain or swelling.

Katydids primarily eat leaves and grass. Along with crickets and grasshoppers, they may be attracted to the plants in your garden or any tall grass on your property. Katydids are nocturnal and are also attracted to bright lights at night.

One type of katydid found widely across North America, the broad-winged katydid, likes to eat the leaves of citrus trees and may be a pest for people with orchards.

You may not know much about katydids, probably because they are masters of camouflage. Their green colouring and leaf-like shape helps them blend into leafy surroundings, and they are most active at night. They may be tough to spot, but may be a lot more common than you think.

Katydids don’t have ears on their heads, but instead they have an ear called a ‘tympanum’ on each front leg, just below the knee. Up close, this looks like a hole in their leg.

The lifespan of a katydid is about a year, with full adulthood usually developing very late. Females most typically lay their eggs at the end of summer beneath the soil or in plant stem holes. The eggs are typically oval and laid in rows on the host plant.

When katydids go to rest during the day, they enter a diurnal roosting posture to maximize their cryptic qualities. This position fools predators into thinking the katydid is either dead or just a leaf on the plant. By flicking their wings open when disturbed, they use the coloration to fool predators into thinking the spots are eyes. This, in combination with their coloration mimicking leaves, allows them to blend in with their surroundings, but also makes predators unsure which side is the front and which side is the back.

They have polygamous relationships. The first male to mate is guaranteed an extremely high confidence of paternity when a second male couples at the termination of female sexual refractoriness. The nutrients that the offspring ultimately receive will increase their fitness.

The polygamous relationships of the katydids lead to high levels of male-male competition. Male competition is caused by the decreased availability of males able to supply nutrients to the females. Females produce more eggs on a high-quality diet; thus, the female looks for healthier males with more nutrition. Females use the sound created by the male to judge his fitness. The louder and more fluent the trill, the higher the fitness of the male.

When you think about it, there is a lot that goes on in the world of what we consider “just a bug.”

Roland’s trivia question of the week:

Which retired former Red Sox player is married to Olympic and World Cup soccer player Mia Hamm?

by Roland D. Hallee

This may not have anything to do with nature, but I think it qualifies.

Nothing is more irritating, to me, at least, than walking into a cobweb as I’m exiting the house or camp. So, that prompted the question, what is the difference between a cobweb and a spider web?

The term “spider web” is typically used to refer to a web that is apparently still in use (i.e., clean), whereas “cobweb” refers to a seemingly abandoned (i.e., dusty) web. However, the word “cobweb” is also used by biologists to describe the tangled three-dimensional web of some spiders of the family Theridiidae.

File this one under “T ”, for “Today I Learned….” Despite emitting from the same arachnid derrière, spider webs and cobwebs are not the same thing. Spider webs are the sticky traps spiders set to capture their supper; cobwebs are but a shadow of their former spider web self.

Typically, a cobweb is an abandoned spider web. The sticky silk of a spider web is excellent at catching insects, so naturally, it’s great at collecting dust. This is especially possible in hard-to-reach areas, like ceiling corners, that are infrequently dusted.

Cobwebs are tangled and irregularly designed webs. Spider webs are more elegant and sophistically designed. Cobwebs are also comprised of a different type of silk than the spider web.

Unlike spider webs, which spiders use to catch and trap their prey, cobwebs are vacant “homes” spiders have abandoned to move on to greener pastures – in this case, usually just a new area of your house. The stray spider silk left behind is incredibly sticky and a magnet for pollen, dust particles, and other debris. This is why, when you discover cobwebs, they appear dirty and loose, instead of elastic and tight as a new spider web.

While they may not pose any real danger, these sticky nuisances certainly don’t add to the aesthetics. Moreover, they tend to accumulate dust, making your space feel less inviting. If your house is starting to resemble a spooky Halloween scene with cobwebs adorning every corner, it’s time to take action. Dust and clean your home regularly. This doesn’t allow a spider to build a web. Dusting regularly doesn’t just keep the webs away, but also ensures other insects attracting elements are cleaned from your house, keeping the prey away, also.

If you’re seeing a lot of spiderwebs in and around your home, it’s likely you’ve incurred a pretty sizeable spider infestation. Spiders typically hide until they have no choice but to come out into the open, so there could be a lot more than you think.

Ways to spider-proof your house:

– Lemon peels. Spiders hate the smell of citrus fruits such as lemons, limes and oranges. …
– Peppermint Oil. This makes a surprisingly great, natural bug repellent. …
– Keep your house clutter-free.
– Close windows at night. …
– White vinegar. …
– Limit lights.

Now, this may sound strange, and it might even be directed at some of our friends, since my wife strongly believes Vicks VapoRub can be used for many cures.

Because of this, Vicks VapoRub is the perfect deterrent – it uses eucalyptus and menthol to open your nasal passages, which is much too strong of a scent for an arachnid. In addition to peppermint, which was mentioned earlier, you can try using essential oils like lavender, eucalyptus, or citrus, as spiders tend to dislike these scents. You can create a homemade spider-repellent spray by mixing a few drops of these essential oils with water and applying it to spider-prone areas.

The smell of cinnamon also repels these arachnids. Spiders prefer to maintain a fair distance away from them. Ultimately, cinnamon oil will also fight other insects and keep them away, so it’s not for spiders only. Mix cinnamon oil with water, dip a cotton ball in, then wipe the mixture in spider-prone areas.

How about moth balls? My wife and I use them liberally when closing up camp in the fall to discourage mice from entering the shelter. Contrary to what many believe, these moth balls really work. So…

As the mothball disintegrates, the chemical is released into the air. The foul scent that is released becomes a spider repellent and gets rid of spiders. They are repelled by this naturally occurring scent. With that being said, spiders will avoid mothballs at all costs.

Will dryer sheets work? Dryer sheets are rumored to protect against much more than static cling. But there is no scientific research to back up these claims.

Finally, my wife and I use small electronic devices to discourage spiders from entering our camp. You can buy them at The Home Depot, Tractor Supply, Agway and Aubuchon Hardware. They are small plug-ins that have a small blinking red light, and the sound of a “tick” every few seconds. They work very well.

So, we’ve learned quite a bit about spiders, their webs and repellants today. Now, if you’re not a fan of spiders, like I, get to work.

Roland’s trivia question of the week:

What “curse” prevented the Red Sox winning the World Series for 85 years?.

by Roland D. Hallee

While driving into work one morning last week, I hit a swarm of dragonflies along the Seaward Mills Road, in Vassalboro. It resembled snow coming at you while driving through a storm. They were coming at me too fast for me to even get an educated guess as to how many there were.

A dragonfly is a flying insect. About 3,000 extant species of dragonflies are known. Most are tropical, with fewer species in temperate regions. Loss of wetland habitat threatens dragonfly populations around the world. Adult dragonflies are characterized by a pair of large, multifaceted, compound eyes, two pairs of strong, transparent wings, sometimes with colored patches, and an elongated body. Many dragonflies have brilliant iridescent or metallic colors produced by structural coloration, making them conspicuous in flight.

Dragonflies can be mistaken for the closely related damselflies, and are similar in body plan, though usually lighter in build; however, the wings of most dragonflies are held flat and away from the body, while damselflies hold their wings folded at rest, along or above the abdomen. Dragonflies are agile fliers, while damselflies have a weaker, fluttery flight. Dragonflies make use of motion camouflage when attacking prey or rivals.

Dragonflies are predatory insects, both in their aquatic nymphal stage and as adults. In some species, the nymphal stage lasts up to five years, and the adult stage may be as long as 10 weeks, but most species have an adult lifespan in the order of five weeks or fewer, and some survive for only a few days.

They are fast, agile fliers capable of highly accurate aerial ambush, sometimes migrating across oceans, and often live near water.

I remember one evening a few yearas ago when my wife and I went out fishing. It was just before dark, and we were fishing the shoreland for bass. We were being pestered by mosquitoes. Then, out of the blue, came a squadron of dragonflies that started to consume the mosquitoes. For the rest of the time we were on the lake that swarm of dragonflies followed us. We were not bothered by mosquitoes, again.

Dragonflies have a uniquely complex mode of reproduction involving indirect insemination, delayed fertilization, and sperm competition. During mating, the male grasps the female at the back of the head, and the female curls her abdomen under her body to pick up sperm from the male’s secondary genitalia at the front of his abdomen, forming the “heart” or “wheel” posture.

Fossils of very large dragonfly-like insects, sometimes called griffinflies, are found from 325 million years ago. They were only distant relatives, not true dragonflies which first appeared during the Early Jurassic.

Dragonflies are represented in human culture on artifacts such as pottery, rock paintings, statues, and Art Nouveau jewelry. They are used in traditional medicine in Japan and China, and caught for food in Indonesia. They are symbols of courage, strength, and happiness in Japan, but seen as sinister in European folklore. Their bright colors and agile flight are admired in the poetry of Lord Tennyson and the prose of H. E. Bates.

Roland’s trivia question of the week:

Name the small town in Indiana where Boston Celtics Hall of Famer Larry Bird was born.

Deer tick, left, and engorged, right.

by Roland D. Hallee

There is nothing like beating a subject to death. But, in this case, it’s worth every word.

You have to be living in a cave not to know that deer ticks are at an all time high. They are everywhere. Friends and family have told me stories about their encounters with the insect, and they all have one thing in common. They have all had multiple numbers on them at one time.

Also, as you know, deer ticks are hazardous to your health, primarily because they are the carriers of the dreaded Lyme Disease. In the last decade alone, the population of ticks of all kinds has ballooned in the United States. The number of ticks that carry Lyme disease has been on the rise in the mid-Atlantic states, and has skyrocketed throughout the Northeast. It has gained a reputation as a serious health problem in many areas.

On top of that, with most of us trying to get outdoors this time of year (opening camps is a real concern), and with the recent mild winter we experienced, the deer ticks are already active and will be out in force this summer.

Only adult female ticks and nymphs can transmit infections through their bite. Male ticks attach, but they don’t feed or become engorged. Adult females have red and brown bodies and are larger than males. Nymphs are actively feeding between early April and early August.

Although not all deer ticks are infected with Lyme disease, you never really know. Only ticks that have fed on infected mammals are diseased. About half of deer ticks are infected (usually white-footed mice can be other culprits).

Deer ticks live two to three years, and in that time usually enjoy three blood meals. In the spring and summer of its second year, a nymph will take its second meal. They insert their mouth parts into the skin much like a corkscrew, which ensures them a nice tight grasp. They often take up to five days to complete their meal.

This fact is key to reducing panic when discovering a tick. An infected tick must be attached to its host for at least 24 hours, and up to 48 hours to transmit the disease. It’s the very reason for checking your body right away after any possible exposure to a tick-infested environment.

Deer ticks crawl. They usually grab onto people or animals that brush up against plants near ground level, and then they crawl upwards to find a quiet place for their blood meal ­– the inner thigh and in the hair line behind the neck are a couple of “favorite” spots. Although many sources will state that ticks don’t land on you from an overhanging tree branch, many people have insisted it has happened to them.

Ticks live in wooded, brushy areas that provide food and cover for mice, deer and other mammals. The ideal tick environment is humid. Your exposure will be greatest along trails in the woods and fringe areas between woods and the border, where they will wait patiently on the tips of vegetation for an unsuspecting host to walk by.

Life is too short to avoid the outdoors during our short spring, summer and fall. In Maine, that is about half the year. There is no need to be brave, just be smart: cover your body; wear repellant; check yourself for ticks, if you find a tick, remove it immediately; shower soon after being outdoors; throw clothing in the dryer, that will kill any ticks present; and finally, if you are concerned, don’t hesitate to contact your doctor.

The best way to remove a tick is to use fine-point tweezers and grab the tick as close to the skin surface as possible. Pull backwards gently but firmly, using an even, steady pressure. Do your best not to jerk or twist. Don’t squeeze, crush or puncture the tick’s body, the fluids inside may contain infection-causing organisms. After removing the tick, wash the skin and your hands thoroughly with hot soap and water. If any mouth part of the tick remain in the skin, leave them alone. They will be expelled on their own. It could take weeks. Trying to remove them will only cause you unnecessary pain.

For the deer tick, Ixodes scapularis, deer are the preferred host, but they can also be found in small rodents. After the female is engorged, the tick drops off and overwinters in the leaf litter of the forest floor. The following spring, she will lay several hundred to a few thousand eggs in clusters. They are very hardy creatures. They will be active even after a moderate to severe frost, as daytime temperatures can warm them enough to keep them actively searching for a host. In the spring, they are one of the first invertebrates to become active.

It may be monotonous to keep hearing about the health hazards of being infected by a deer tick, but it’s one that needs to be repeated.

Roland’s trivia question of the week:

The 1927 New York Yankees batting order, including Babe Ruth and Lou Gehrig, was known by what nickname?

Squash bug

by Roland D. Hallee

Have you ever heard of a pumpkin bug? Well, neither had I until someone asked about them.

The pumpkin bug, or squash bug, are also called stink bugs, but are not the traditional stink bug. Although some pumpkin bugs are called stink bugs, not all stink bugs are pumpkin bugs. If you ever spot a sizable green stink bug, there’s a good chance that it’s a pumpkin bug. They are similar in appearance to stink bugs because they both have a foul odor when squashed. However, stink bugs are wider and rounder.

The squash bug, Anasa tristis, is common throughout the United States. It primarily attacks squash and pumpkins but can also attack other cucurbits, such as cucumbers.

They are the bane of a gardener. They are difficult to kill and can cause a lot of havoc.

The adult bugs are somewhat flat, large insects, measuring 5/8 inch long and 1/3 inch wide. They are usually dark gray to dark brown. The edges of the abdomens protrude beyond their wings and typically have alternating orangish and brown stripes. They are able to fly, however they often simply walk around on plants.

These bugs overwinter as adults in sheltered places, such as under plant debris, around buildings, or under rocks. When adults emerge in the spring, they fly to growing cucurbit plants to feed and mate. Females lay eggs individually in small clusters of about 20 commonly on the undersides of the leaves, especially between the veins where they form a V. The females usually begin to appear in gardens in early June, and continue to lay eggs through mid-summer.

These bugs have piercing-sucking mouthparts they use to suck the sap out of leaves. This process produces yellow spots that eventually turn brown, and disrupts the flow of water and nutrients, which can cause wilting. Young plants are more susceptible to extensive damage. Larger, more vigorous plants are more tolerant of feeding damage, although they can also be injured or killed if they are severely attacked.

These bugs inject a toxin into the plant and suck the sap right out of it with their sharp mouthparts. This causes yellow spots that eventually turn brown. The leaves will wilt because the damage prevents the flow of nutrients to the leaves, and then they will dry up and turn black.

The most important times to control squash bugs are when the plants are young seedlings and when they are flowering. Early detection is important because adult squash bugs are difficult to kill.

Remove or knock off and kill nymphs and adults by dropping them into a bucket of soapy water. This can be challenging because the bugs hide under leaves and move quickly when disturbed.

Crush the eggs that are attached to the undersides and stems of leaves.

Trap the bugs by laying out boards or pieces of newspaper. The bugs will congregate under the boards at night, and then can be collected and destroyed in the morning.

Check your plants daily. If there are no more than a few vines infected, keep collecting and destroying the bugs and crushing the egg clusters that you find.

Insecticides are not generally needed to control these bugs. They can be used if cucurbits are found wilting early in the season. Carbaryl/Sevin, is most effective if applied when eggs are hatching. Consult your local garden center for controls that are locally approved. When using an insecticide, make sure to read the instructions well.

Planting time is approaching. Make sure your garden is free of these little pests. There is no worse feeling than seeing your plants being destroyed and you have no idea what is causing it. Check under the leaves.

Roland’s trivia question of the week:

Which MLB pitcher owns the distinction of having won the most games, and having lost the most games during his career?