SMALL SPACE GARDENING: Plan and plant a hummingbird garden

A hummingbird dining on the nectar of phlox. (photo courtesy of MelindaMyers.com)

by Melinda Myers

Whether you are making some late additions to your gardens or planning for the future include some hummingbird-favorite plants. Select plants and create combinations to attract and support them with a season-long supply of nectar.

Hummingbirds consume an average of two to three times their weight in nectar each day. Providing feeders and an abundance of flowers throughout the season will support the hummingbirds and help attract them to your gardens. Keep this in mind as you add plants to your landscape.

Shrubs like azalea, lilac, weigela, buttonbush, and Rose-of-Sharon provide shelter for birds and nectar-filled flowers for hummingbirds and other pollinators to enjoy. The North American native honeysuckle vine adds vertical interest and hummingbird appeal even in small spaces. Major Wheeler is a cultivar of the native honeysuckle vine that blooms all summer and is more resistant to powdery mildew. Watch as the hummingbirds munch on any aphids that attack this plant. They are great pest managers to have in the garden.

Another native vine, the trumpet vine, is a vigorous grower that can be trained into a small tree or onto a trellis. This plant will send out suckers requiring some regular maintenance. Be patient as it can take several years for this vine to begin flowering. Avoid overfertilization which results in an even bigger plant and no flowers.

Shorter vines, like the hummingbird’s favorite cardinal vine, make excellent thrillers in containers. Train them onto a decorative support and grow them in their own pot or combine them with other annuals.

Include perennials for added seasonal beauty and nectar. Early blooming lungwort is shade tolerant and provides some of the earliest nectar for these winged beauties. Leave the white or lavender flowers on your hostas for the hummingbirds. This popular shade-tolerant plant is often overlooked for its hummingbird appeal.

Garden phlox and bee balm are both hummingbird favorites that add color and nectar to the summer garden. Look for powdery mildew-resistant varieties or plant them among other tall plants to hide any discolored foliage that may occur. North American native anise hyssop and liatris are two more favorites you may want to include.

Fill vacant spots in the garden, containers, or hanging baskets with annuals known to attract hummingbirds. Fuchsias, begonias, and impatiens are perfect for shady locations. Cupheas are often sold under the common names, tiny mice and cigar plant, and prefer a sunnier location. The taller blue horizon ageratum, geranium, bidens, tall verbena, and petunias grow well in gardens and containers.

Both perennial and annual salvias attract hummingbirds. Place a pot or two of Black and Blue, Black and Bloom, and Wendy’s Wish near your windows, so you can enjoy the frequent visits of your resident hummingbirds.

Add one or more feeders to your landscape. Provide space between the feeders as hummingbirds are territorial. Make sure there is cover within 10 to 15 feet. Fill the container with a 1-part sugar to 4-part water solution. Replace the mixture and clean the feeders every few days. This provides additional food for the hummingbirds and viewing opportunities for you.

It may take a couple of years for the hummingbirds to find your nectar-filled garden. In the meantime, you will enjoy the flowers and other pollinators that stop by to dine.

Melinda Myers has written more than 20 gardening books, including the recently released Midwest Gardener’s Handbook, 2nd Edition, and Small Space Gardening. She hosts The Great Courses “How to Grow Anything” instant video and DVD series and the nationally syndicated Melinda’s Garden Moment TV & radio program. Myers is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine and her website is www.MelindaMyers.com.

SMALL SPACE GARDENING: Forcing spring flowering bulbs into bloom

A pot of tulips that were forced into bloom. (photo courtesy of MelindaMyers.com)

by Melinda Myers

Brighten your indoor décor, patio, deck, or balcony by forcing a few spring flowering bulbs into bloom. Just plant, give them a chill and enjoy a few extra daffodils, hyacinths, tulips, crocus and grape hyacinths this winter and spring.

All you need is a suitable container, some well-drained potting mix, the bulbs and a place to give the bulbs the chill necessary to force them to bloom. Select a container with drainage holes that is deep enough to accommodate the largest bulbs. Cover the bottom few inches of the container with a well-drained potting mix. Place larger and taller bulbs like tulips, daffodils and hyacinths in the center surrounded by shorter varieties. They can be planted close together, about one half the bulb width apart with the neck of larger bulbs at or just below the soil surface. Set tulips with the flat side of the bulb facing the pot for a better display.

If you are using a deep container, plant layers of bulbs for a more robust and longer-lasting display. Set the largest bulbs on the potting mix near the bottom of the container. Cover these bulbs with soil and add the smaller bulbs like grape hyacinths and crocus on the next level. Plant these bulbs close to each other, covering the surface, for greater impact. Cover this layer with at least an inch of soil. Water thoroughly so the excess water drains out the bottom of the pot.

Move the bulb-filled container to a cool location where temperatures remain above freezing and between 35 to 45 degrees Fahrenheit for 12 to 15 weeks. A spare refrigerator works well for this. Just avoid storing the bulbs in a refrigerator with fruit like apples and pears that emit ethylene gas that can negatively impact flowering. If refrigerator space is limited, you can store the unplanted bulbs in a paper bag, so they take up less space in the fridge for the needed chill before planting.

Those gardening in colder climates can also store the pots in an unheated garage. Just water the containers whenever the soil is thawed and dry. Or sink the container into a vacant garden space in your landscape. Mulch the soil once the ground starts to freeze with evergreen boughs. The winter mulch makes retrieving the container easier in winter or spring.

Once the 12- to 15-week cold period is complete, you can begin moving the pots indoors. Remove a few pots every week to extend the bloom time and your enjoyment. Place the pot in a cool bright location to encourage more compact growth. Water thoroughly when the top few inches of soil begin to dry. Soon the leaves will begin to sprout and flowers will appear in about four weeks.

Provide ongoing care if you plan on moving the bulbs into the garden. Remove the faded flowers and place the leafy plants in a sunny window and water thoroughly whenever the top inch of soil is dry. Fertilize with a dilute solution of any flowering houseplant fertilizer.

When the danger of frost has passed, you can move these plants into the garden if they are suited to your growing conditions. These plants may not bloom the following spring but usually do the next year and for several beyond.

Or you can toss the forced bulbs into the compost pile so they can return to your garden as wonderful compost.

Investing time forcing a few spring flowering bulbs into bloom is sure to boost your spirits this winter. Consider planting a few extra pots of bulbs to do the same for friends and family.

Melinda Myers has written more than 20 gardening books, including the recently released Midwest Gardener’s Handbook, 2nd Edition and Small Space Gardening. She hosts The Great Courses “How to Grow Anything” instant video and DVD series and the nationally syndicated Melinda’s Garden Moment TV & radio program. Myers is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine and her website is www.MelindaMyers.com.

SMALL SPACE GARDENING: Design a deer-resistant garden without the fence

A hungry deer grazing in a garden. (photo courtesy of MelindaMyers.com)

by Melinda Myers

Deer are common visitors to landscapes even in urban and suburban areas. Fencing is the most effective way to protect your plants but is not always practical or desirable. Your community may have restrictions on fencing, your budget may not support this option, or you prefer not to hide your plantings behind a fence.

Growing a beautiful garden despite the deer is possible but takes planning, persistence, and flexibility. You must be willing to change strategies as needed to minimize deer damage.

Deer dining patterns can vary from one part of your neighborhood to another and from year to year. You have probably reviewed deer-resistant plant lists only to find a few of the plants frequently damaged in your yard included on the list.

No plant is immune from hungry deer, but some are a bit less palatable than others.

Look for plants with these characteristics next time you go plant shopping. Include plants with fuzzy or hairy leaves, those with prickly or thorny stems, thick and leathery leaves, and strong fragrances that deer tend to avoid. Even though this is not one hundred percent, plant selection should be part of your strategy for reducing the risk of damage. Make note of the plants selected and how the deer responded. It will help as you make future additions to the garden.

There are toxic plants that deer avoid, including daffodils, ferns, false blue indigo, poppies, euphorbias, and bleeding hearts to name a few. Some of these are also toxic to people and pets so do your research before adding them to the landscape.

Some gardeners find combining the less favored plants with those the deer love helps discourage feeding. Planting strongly scented lavender next to roses or surrounding a garden of deer favorites with thyme can help discourage deer browsing. Diversifying plantings is also a good strategy for reducing the risk of insects and diseases infecting and destroying gardens filled with just one type of plant.

Look for pathways frequented or used to enter your landscape. Find ways to disrupt their regular routes to keep them moving along past your landscape. A trellis or a few posts covered with vines may be enough to limit access. Points of access are great places to apply repellents like organic Plantskydd (plantskydd.com). The deer take a whiff and move along before taking a bite out of any plants. The same holds true for those key plants favored by deer. It’s rain and snow resistant so you don’t need to apply it as often as other repellent products.

Plant a deer-deterring hedge. Some gardeners use deer favorites, allowing the deer to munch on these plants as they continue past your yard. Other gardeners fill the hedge with prickly, smelly, and less desirable plants. Deer will take a bite and move along. Plant these close together to discourage deer from pushing through in search of better-tasting plants.

Design round or square beds with more space in the middle and less perimeter. Long narrow beds allow easy access to all the plants in the garden.

Keep in mind deer are focused on finding food while you have other priorities to consider. You need to be vigilant and persistent, adapting as the deer’s eating habits change to be successful. Your efforts will be rewarded as you grow an attractive garden without the help of a fence.

Melinda Myers has written more than 20 gardening books, including The Midwest Gardener’s Handbook, 2nd Edition and Small Space Gardening. She hosts The Great Courses “How to Grow Anything” instant video and DVD series and the nationally-syndicated Melinda’s Garden Moment TV & radio program. Myers is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine and was commissioned by Tree World Plant Care for her expertise to write this article. Her website is www.MelindaMyers.com.

SMALL SPACE GARDENING: Elevate your garden’s beauty with jewel-tone plants

Blue by You salvia has rich blue blossoms from late spring into fall, attracting butterflies and hummingbirds. (photo courtesy
of All-America Selections)

by Melinda Myers

Bring the beauty of your favorite gemstones into the garden and your outdoor living space with the help of jewel-toned plants. Even a pot of these beauties placed on the balcony can provide bold color, vibrancy, and lushness to any space.

Select plants with leaves, flowers, or both in the saturated colors of gemstones like rubies, amethyst, topaz, sapphire, and turquoise. Select plants with colors that complement your home and landscape and will thrive in the growing conditions in your gardening space.

Look for opportunities to include these rich colors throughout the growing season. Jewel-toned pansies, ornamental cabbage and kale, and calendula are a few plants that thrive in cooler weather, providing welcome color before other plants appear or have faded in the summer heat.

As temperatures rise, include rich yellows and oranges of Rudbeckias and sunflowers. Add a showy and exotic look to the garden with Crocosmia. Plant Lucifer for bright red flowers, Prince of Orange for its red-orange blooms, and George Davidson for an added touch of yellow. Check out the many colorful varieties of dahlias and gladiolus that grow well in the garden and containers and make great additions to your garden bouquets. Canna’s bold and colorful foliage is impressive all season long and is sure to command attention when topped with flowers.

Add colorful zinnias for season-long color. You can start them from seed right in the garden or buy transplants for earlier bloom. Look for disease-resistant varieties and those with bold colors like Benary’s giant deep red, Profusion red, and Double Zahara Fire’s orange-red blooms. These sunny loving annuals are also heat and drought-tolerant, making them perfect for low-maintenance gardens.

Plant some tall Mexican sunflowers in the back of the garden. Consider Fiesta Del Sol, a more compact variety, if you want something shorter and more compact. No matter which you grow, you and the pollinators will enjoy the orange blooms.

Keep the color going with summer to fall blooming Helenium which is hardy in zones three to eight. Hot Lava is topped with fire engine red flowers while Butterpat has vibrant yellow blossoms.

Coral bells come in a wide variety of leaf colors, making it easy to include jewel tones all season long. Many shade-tolerant hostas have deep green foliage that provides the perfect backdrop for other flowers.

Combining complementary colors that appear opposite of each other on the artist’s color wheel creates an eye-catching display. Dark colors can easily disappear in the background or shade. Teaming them with a complementary colored plant or light background can help them pop. A combination of purple-leaved bugbane and the fine chartreuse foliage of Hakone grass, for example, allows both plants to shine while creating a splendid display.

Make sure the plants you combine are equally bold, so each adds to the overall design. Mix in some green foliage to provide a bit of color relief. Too much of a good thing, including vibrant colors, can overpower the landscape and create a somewhat chaotic feel.

Make notes on the plants and combinations you want to repeat next year. Note those that didn’t perform to your expectations and don’t need to be repeated. If you decide to expand upon this theme, be sure to add some jewel-toned, spring-flowering bulbs like tulips and hyacinths to the landscape this fall.

Melinda Myers has written more than 20 gardening books, including the recently released Midwest Gardener’s Handbook, 2nd Edition and Small Space Gardening. She hosts The Great Courses “How to Grow Anything” instant video and DVD series and the nationally syndicated Melinda’s Garden Moment TV & radio program. Myers is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine and her website is www.MelindaMyers.com.

SMALL SPACE GARDENING: Late winter tent caterpillar management

tent caterpillars

by Melinda Myers

Start this year’s tree pest management with a stroll through the landscape. As you enjoy the scenery, be sure to look for any unwelcome pests that may be overwintering on the twigs of trees.

Look for and remove egg masses of tent caterpillars now through spring. These clusters of eggs look like shiny blobs of mud surrounding the twigs. Each egg mass contains hundreds and in some cases thousands of eggs.

The forest tent caterpillar is the most widely distributed tent caterpillar. It attacks a variety of trees that vary with the region. Check any sugar maples, aspen, cherries, apples, oaks, birch, ash, alder, elm, basswood, or water tupelo trees growing in your landscape.

Trees may suffer damage when large populations of these caterpillars devour the majority of the tree’s leaves for several years in a row. This can result in reduced tree growth, top dieback, and tree mortality. There are several natural predators of this insect pest so working with nature is a great way to help reduce damage. Remove the egg masses found on small twigs that are more easily reached on smaller trees. After the eggs hatch, look for the caterpillars in a silken mat, not a tent like the other tent caterpillars. Remove the young caterpillars from branch tips or squash those resting on the main stem in the evening or on cool days.

You may also see similar egg masses of the Western or Eastern tent caterpillars depending on where you live. Their egg masses look similar to those of the forest tent caterpillar. Remove the egg masses of these tent caterpillars in spring before the eggs hatch.

Once the eggs hatch, the caterpillars begin forming a webby tent in the crotch of the tree. As they feed and grow, the tent expands. They remain in the tent during the hot part of the day and rainy weather.

Knock the tents, caterpillars and all, out of the tree when the majority of caterpillars are in the tent. Smash or dump the caterpillars in a can of soapy water.
Do not burn the tents. This old practice is hazardous and the fire can severely damage the tree, much worse than the insects.

Control is usually not needed on healthy and established trees. If you decide to intervene, consider using an organic insecticide with the active ingredient Bacillus thuringiensis var. kurstaki (Btk). It is effective when applied to the tents soon after they start to form and when the caterpillars are small. Just spray the tent and the surrounding 1.5 feet of leaves. These products only kill caterpillars and will not harm other insects or birds feeding on these pests.

When working with nature, we have help from predatory insects and songbirds when managing these and other garden pests. Taking time this winter for a bit of prevention can go a long way in reducing damage from tent caterpillars.

Melinda Myers has written more than 20 gardening books, including the recently released Midwest Gardener’s Handbook, 2nd Edition and Small Space Gardening. She hosts The Great Courses “How to Grow Anything” instant video and DVD series and the nationally syndicated Melinda’s Garden Moment TV & radio program. Myers is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine and her website is www.MelindaMyers.com.

SMALL SPACE GARDENING: Growing tasty and nutritious leafy greens indoors

by Melinda Myers

Boost the flavor and nutritional value of winter meals by growing a container of greens indoors. Plant, tend and harvest greens for garden-fresh flavor now and throughout the year.

Green leafy vegetables are healthy sources of carbohydrates, typically rich in fiber and nutrients, while also being low in fat and calories. Many of these vegetables can help reduce the risk of stroke, anemia, high blood pressure, certain cancers, and diabetes. They also help improve the health of your gut, heart, bone, and skin while boosting your body’s immunity.

To create your own indoor garden of greens, all you need are seeds, a container, potting mix, and a sunny window or artificial lights. Select a container or planter with drainage holes or reduce maintenance with the help of self-watering containers like the Viva Round or Square self-watering planters. Their water reservoirs reduce watering frequency.

Fill the container with a quality potting mix that is well-drained and retains moisture. Plant seeds as recommended on the seed packet. You can grow each type of green in its own container or mix them up for an attractive display in larger planters like the Tartu Elevated Rectangular Planter (gardeners.com).

Water thoroughly and often enough to keep the soil moist while waiting for the seeds to sprout. Reduce the need for frequent watering by covering newly planted containers with a plastic sheet or dome. Once sprouts appear, remove the plastic and begin watering thoroughly when the top inch of soil begins to dry.

Boost productivity and increase planting space with the help of artificial lights. You will find a variety of setups for any space in your home. Counter and tabletop light stands like the Micro Grow Light Garden can be conveniently located in the kitchen or dining room. Stand-alone light shelves provide more growing space within a small footprint. Furniture-grade light stands make them easy to use in any room in the house.

Grow greens you and your family like to use in your favorite recipes and salads. Green or red leaf lettuce is easy to grow indoors and its mild flavor is most appealing to children and picky eaters.

Spinach is another popular and easy-to-grow leafy green vegetable used fresh in salads and smoothies or added to soups and sauces. It contains many vitamins and nutrients, including iron, folic acid, and calcium.

Kale is considered a superfood. This nutrient-dense vegetable is packed with vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. If the flavor is a bit too intense for you, try the baby leaf types that are milder in flavor, or try braising kale for a milder flavor and more tender texture.

Add a bit of peppery flavor to salads, soups, pastas, and other dishes with arugula. Add a spicier flavor with mustard greens. Sauté mustard greens or add them to your favorite Southern, Asian, Indian or savory dish.

Include color and flavor in your winter meals with beet greens. The leafy part of this vegetable is often overlooked but is the most nutritious part of the plant. Use these the same way you would spinach or kale. You can purchase beet varieties selected for growing the best greens to harvest from baby to full size.

Make it more fun by getting others involved. Hand family members and guests a plate and kitchen shears so they can harvest and help prepare the meal.

Melinda Myers is the author of more than 20 gardening books. She hosts The Great Courses “How to Grow Anything” DVD series and Melinda’s Garden Moment TV & radio program. Myers is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine and was commissioned by Gardener’s Supply for her expertise to write this article. Her website is www.MelindaMyers.com.

SMALL SPACE GARDENING: Grow a beautiful indoor succulent garden

Succulents are low-maintenance houseplants that add interest and beauty to indoor décor. (photo courtesy of Gardener’s Supply Company/gardeners.com)

by Melinda Myers

It’s no surprise that succulents, including cacti, are popular. These easy-care houseplants come in a variety of colors, shapes, and sizes making them perfect for any home.

All you need is a lot of light and benign neglect to raise healthy and beautiful succulents. Place the plants near an unobstructed south, west- or east-facing window.

Don’t let a lack of light stop you from enjoying these beautiful plants in your home. You’ll find many attractive options for displaying your plants while providing the light they need. A single desktop LED plant light, attractive plant light shelves and carts, and furniture-grade light gardens allow you to grow these sun-lovers anywhere in your home.

Grow these plants in cacti and succulent potting mix. These fast-draining mixes help reduce the risk of overwatering which can lead to root rot. Further reduce this risk by using containers with drainage holes that are only slightly larger than the succulents’ root system. Growing them in too large of a container that retains moisture longer can result in root rot, decline, and even the death of your plants.

Water thoroughly whenever the top inch or two of soil is dry. Some gardeners check the soil moisture at the drain hole to ensure it is dry and the plants need to be watered. Always pour off any excess water that collects in the saucer.

Avoid water collecting in the rosette of leaves or the cluster of prickly stems that can lead to crown rot. Use a watering can like the Haws Indoor Watering Can which has a long narrow spout that allows you to reach under the plants to water just the soil.

Make slight adjustments in your watering regime and growing environment as the seasons change. Adapting to changing conditions will keep your plants healthy and looking their best year-round.

Find a cool, sunny, draft-free location for your cacti and succulents in the fall and winter. Maximize the amount of light the plants receive by moving them to the sunniest, usually south-facing, window in your home. Water thoroughly but only when the top few inches of soil are dry and just often enough to keep the plants from shriveling. These changes in the growing conditions often encourage a spring display of colorful and unique flowers.

Boost your succulents’ natural beauty by displaying them in unique containers or places in your home. Create a living wall display with a 3-tier vertical wall planter (gardeners.com) or Mini Magnetic Galvanized Planter Pockets.

Grow a succulent centerpiece that can be enjoyed year-round. Plant a variety of succulents in a long narrow planter like the Veradek GEO Series Planter boxes. Display it on the table, and if needed, move it back to its sunny location between dinner parties. Small containers like the heart-shaped concrete tabletop planters allow you to create an attractive dish garden even when space is limited.

Whether you’re a busy, experienced, or new indoor gardener, creating a succulent garden may be just what you need to brighten your home and elevate your mood.

Melinda Myers is the author of more than 20 gardening books, including Small Space Gardening and Midwest Gardener’s Handbook, 2nd Edition. She hosts The Great Courses “How to Grow Anything” DVD series and Melinda’s Garden Moment TV & radio program. Myers is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine and was commissioned by Gardener’s Supply for her expertise to write this article. Her website is www.MelindaMyers.com.

SMALL SPACE GARDENING: Boost the health and beauty of your house plants

by Melinda Myers

Fight the post-holiday blues with a bit of indoor gardening. Keeping your houseplants healthy and looking their best with a bit of grooming this winter is sure to lift your spirits.

Clip off any dead leaves as they appear. Use a sharp snips or bypass pruner to make a clean cut that looks tidy and closes up quickly. An occasional brown leaf is not usually a problem but if browning continues, it might be time to take action. Evaluate the growing conditions and make needed adjustments.

Brown leaves are often caused by low humidity which is common in many homes during winter. Boost the humidity in your home by grouping plants together. As one plant loses moisture through its leaves through transpiration the neighboring plants benefit. Add pebbles or marbles to the saucer or trays beneath the plants. Allow excess water to collect in the pebbles below the pot. As the water evaporates it increases the humidity right around the plant. Move plants that require moist soil and high humidity into a terrarium. They are attractive living decorations and make caring for high-maintenance plants easier.

Over and under-watering can also result in brown leaves, leaf edges, and tips. Water thoroughly when needed. Base frequency on the plants you are growing, room temperature and humidity. Tropical plants need more consistently moist soil while cacti and succulents like it drier. With lower light conditions in many homes, plants grow slower and may need less frequent watering in winter. Pour off any excess water that collects in the saucer which can lead to root rot.

Stop fertilizing indoor plants in winter unless they are actively growing. Applying fertilizer that plants don’t need can cause root damage, leading to leaf discoloration.

Trim off brown tips that are common on spider plants, dracaenas, Ti plants, and prayer plants sensitive to the chlorine and fluoride in water. Avoid the problem by using chemical-free water.

Wipe dust off the leaves with a damp cloth. Use a cosmetic brush to clean the fuzzy leaves of plants like African violets. Keeping your plants clean and well-groomed also helps reduce insect and disease problems.

Further protect plants from pests with Summit Sticky Traps (SummitResponsibleSolutions.com). Just place one or two in the pot with the sticky side exposed. The yellow attracts fungus gnats, aphids, thrips, leaf miners, and other harmful pests feeding on your plants. The sticky surface traps the insects causing them to die without the use of pesticides. Replace the trap once it is covered with insects or every three months.

Boost indoor plant resilience by providing the right amount of light. Move plants to a sunnier window or add artificial lights as needed. Then give plants a quarter turn every time you water. This promotes more balanced growth by exposing all parts of the plant to the light source.

Taking time to tend to your plants improves their health and beauty while elevating your mood and helping fight stress.

Melinda Myers has written more than 20 gardening books, including the recently released Midwest Gardener’s Handbook, 2nd Edition and Small Space Gardening. She hosts The Great Courses “How to Grow Anything” instant video and DVD series and the nationally syndicated Melinda’s Garden Moment TV & radio program. Myers is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine and was commissioned by Summit for her expertise to write this article. Myers’ website is www.MelindaMyers.com.

SMALL SPACE GARDENING: Keep holiday greens looking their best

When outdoor temperatures are cooler, green arrangements, like this winter container garden, last much longer than indoor displays. (photo courtesy of MelindaMyers.com)

by Melinda Myers

Wreaths, door swags, garlands, and containers filled with evergreens have long been part of winter celebrations and displays. Keep them fresh and looking their best throughout the holidays with minimal effort.

Fresh greenery with pliable branches and firmly attached needles will last the longest. Check for good color and an aroma you prefer. Consider buying extra greenery and storing it in the garage or another cool location. Use these to replace any indoor greenery that is starting to brown.

Recut the bottom of the stems with a sharp bypass pruner. Totally submerge the greenery in a tub of room-temperature water overnight to help rehydrate the needles. Gently crush the cut end to allow it to better absorb moisture.

Remove the cuttings from the water and once dry, seal in the moisture by spraying the greens with an anti-transpirant, often called anti-desiccant. These products seal in moisture, reducing drying due to warm, dry air indoors and drying winds and sunlight outside.

Follow label directions for application tips and dilution rates based on what you are treating. Avoid using these on juniper berries, cedar and blue spruce. The waxy coating that makes these look blue can be damaged by these products. Apply anti-desiccant products outdoors during the day, as light is needed to activate some of these chemicals. Allow the treated greens to dry for three to four hours before moving them inside.

Display indoor greenery in cool locations out of direct sunlight. This reduces moisture loss and extends the life of your garland, wreaths, and arrangements.

Keep greenery away from heat sources that speed drying, decorative lights that generate heat, and flames from candles. Check the greens every few days and replace dry, brittle, and brown cuttings with fresh greens.

Outdoor greenery lasts much longer when temperatures are cooler than indoors. Further extend their longevity by placing them in more sheltered locations, out of direct sunlight and wind where they suffer less drying. Avoid hanging wreaths and swags in front of windows in direct sunlight where the reflected light can burn the foliage. Use an anti-transpirant on outdoor greenery to help reduce moisture loss and extend your enjoyment.

Keep outdoor planters of greens looking their best throughout the winter. Keep the soil moist until it freezes when displaying spruce tips, cut holiday trees, and evergreen stems in outdoor containers. If and when the ground freezes, you can stop watering.

A bit of effort goes a long way in extending the beauty of holiday greenery.

Melinda Myers has written more than 20 gardening books, including the recently released Midwest Gardener’s Handbook, 2nd Edition and Small Space Gardening. She hosts The Great Courses “How to Grow Anything” instant video and DVD series and the nationally syndicated Melinda’s Garden Moment TV & radio program. Myers is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine and her website is www.MelindaMyers.com.

SMALL SPACE GARDENING: Fall care of perennials

The seed heads of rudbeckia attract seed-eating songbirds to the winter garden.
Photo courtesy of MelindaMyers.com

by Melinda Myers

As you transition your gardens from fall to winter, you may be contemplating a bit of garden clean up. Before reaching for the pruners and rakes, consider all the benefits and beauty of leaving healthy perennials stand for winter.

The seed heads of many perennials like coneflower, rudbeckias, liatris and bee balm attract seed-eating songbirds like finches, sparrow, chickadees, juncos, and jays to the winter garden. These winged visitors add motion and color to the winter garden. Best of all, you don’t need to refill and clean this natural food source.

Many of these plants provide homes for beneficial insects, including native bees and other pollinators. A variety of these insects overwinter in or near the stems of perennials.

Native plants have evolved with many of these insects, birds and wildlife and most provide homes and food for native insects, songbirds, and wildlife. Purple coneflower, liatris, rudbeckias, sunflowers, asters, goldenrod, yucca, and Joe Pye weed are just a few of these native plants you might be growing.

Enjoy the winter foliage of evergreen and semi-evergreen perennials by leaving them intact in the garden. Watch for and avoid disturbing the green leaves at the base of perennials like yarrow, Shasta daisy, and globe thistle.

Leave borderline hardy perennials intact to improve their chances of surviving a harsher-than-normal winter. The stems capture any snow and helps retain any additional winter mulch, both providing needed root insulation.

Remove any diseased or insect-pest-infested plants. Removing this from the garden in fall reduces the risk of these problems occurring next year. Discard do not compost this material as most compost piles do not heat up to high enough temperatures to kill them. Contact your local municipality for disposal options.

Remove hosta leaves once the fall color fades and leaves die to reduce the risk of leaf nematodes overwintering in the crown of the plants. It also eliminates a winter home for slugs and their eggs.

Wait for several hard frosts when cutting back perennials in the fall. In milder climates, wait for leaves to brown and dry completely. This ensures the plant has stored all the energy it produced in the roots for healthy growth next spring.

Use sharp bypass pruners to make a clean cut through the stem. Disinfect tools by dipping in rubbing alcohol or spraying with a disinfect spray to prevent the spread of disease.

Rake leaves into the garden over the soil surface around the plants instead of to the curb. Fall leaves make great mulch that moderates soil temperature, suppresses weeds, conserves moisture, and improves the soil as they break down. Plus, they are free.

Wait to finish removing perennials until spring temperatures regularly hover in the 50’s. This allows overwintering insects a chance to leave their winter homes. It also provides songbirds much needed food in spring before many of our plants begin producing seeds and berries.

Once the garden is set for winter, you can relax and make plans for the spring garden.

Melinda Myers has written more than 20 gardening books, including the recently released Midwest Gardener’s Handbook, 2nd Edition and Small Space Gardening. She hosts The Great Courses “How to Grow Anything” instant video and DVD series and the nationally syndicated Melinda’s Garden Moment TV & radio program. Myers is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine and her website is www.MelindaMyers.com.