by Emily Cates

Growing fresh, delicious, nutritious sprouts for the winter table

Brrr! I don’t know about you, but the most I’m getting out of my garden right now is icicles. Wouldn’t it be nice to grow something fresh and green? Is it even possible when it’s so cold outside?

Enter sprouts, the superheroes of nutrition – here to save the day! Not only are freshly prepared sprouts delicious, but they are alive and loaded with vitamins, minerals, and enzymes that are very good for you. As an added bonus, they are inexpensive, easy to grow, and take up very little room in the kitchen. Kids are oftentimes fascinated at the sight of germinating seeds- which affords all of us an opportunity to enjoy a closer, more personal relationship with the food we eat. And even folks in urban areas and those with limited space can enjoy the benefits of fresh, delicious, nutritious sprouts.

If you’d like to give it a try, the first thing you might like to do is find a source of sprouting seeds. Clover, alfalfa, wheat berries, mung beans, fenugreek, onion, and chia are some popular choices. Whole grains like brown rice, wheat berries, whole barley, rye, quinoa, millet, and beans are easier to digest and even more nutritious when sprouted. (I always prepare them this way before cooking and thoroughly enjoy it!) A word of caution, though: Never sprout treated seeds and always make sure your seeds are food-grade. Some seeds such as those from tomatoes, potatoes, and other nightshade vegetables are poisonous when sprouted. And, of course, use common sense while growing sprouts. When in doubt to the freshness or safety of sprouts that have an off-odor or develop mold, throw them out and try again. Keep records when starting out to streamline the learning experience.

With that in mind, a great source for sprouting seed is local health food stores. Sometimes seed companies like Pinetree and Johnny’s sell sprouting seeds along with special sprouting equipment. (For a long term, sustainable source of sprouting seed stock, try starting your own crop outside in the spring.) For best results, use fresh seeds and store the unused portions in a cool, dry location in an airtight glass jar. The freezer is by far the best place for long-term storage of seeds. Just make sure to let the jar warm to room temperature before opening to prevent the formation of moisture on the seeds. That will keep any seeds from that batch from losing their viability if they are to be stored again.

Now that you have obtained the seeds, it’s time to start sprouting! Germination will occur sooner in a warm room. There are several different methods of growing sprouts, but I have found this way to be the easiest: Soak the seeds in water overnight. Use a strainer or colander for the sprouting vessel, and line it with screen or cheesecloth if the holes are large enough for seeds to fall out. Then place the seeds no more than 2 cm thick in the vessel and rinse several times each day. Keep them moist but not waterlogged. In a day or two, depending on the seed, you should see some action. The seeds can be eaten soon after they have sprouted or a while later when they have grown a couple inches or longer. Experiment on what suits your taste. Expose the sprouts to sunlight until they turn green with nutrition. Then enjoy some fresh garden goodness straight from your countertop!

by Emily Cates

Are we ready for Old Man Winter? We should be, since Mother Nature seems to be making up her mind that she’s here!

Many opportunities in the garden like digging and planting are lost when the ground freezes. The good news, though, is there may be a little time left for winterizing our garden and orchard now. The effort expended will reward us next year with fewer frustrations and heartaches, and much more satisfaction with our hard work. A case in point is all those wonderful fruit trees we invested our time and money in. At twenty-five bucks a pop, a tree will potentially pay for itself many times over — that is, if it thrives and survives long enough to make it worth our while. Chances are if a young tree successfully makes it through the winter, then it will be more likely to do well in the future. That’s why winter care is so vital and should not be overlooked, especially in beginning of the season and early on in a tree’s lifespan. The following are suggestions with trees in mind — though they should work well with vines (such as grapes), cane fruits, and shrubs.

The challenges for trees in the wintertime are unique. An important thing to keep in mind is that the snow can both help and hurt a tree. It helps in that it acts as a protective blanket that holds in warmth, thus enabling a tree to be fully hardy in northern areas. However, this blanket will also house unwelcome guests such as rodents who chew the bark and damage the tree. Foil the rascals with tin foil- simply make a collar and wrap the tree trunk at the base and up a foot or two. Or use hardware cloth, window screening, or a tree guard from a garden store. Remember to regularly check the collar and allow room for the growing trunk, keeping an eye out for girdling and abrasion if rigid materials are used.

Winter sun might brighten our day, but it can reflect on the snow pack and harm the trunk of a tree. Trees in the woods seem to have less of this problem since the light is more diffused, but it can be a bigger issue in an orchard planting. Sunscald can be remedied by a coat of interior latex paint mixed with joint compound and painted onto the trunk. (This, incidentally, also makes it easier to spot borer damage on pear and apple trees.) The FEDCO Trees catalog has a great recipe for an organic option using quick lime, milk, and linseed oil. Tin foil may once again come to the rescue for this problem; it’s also good for minimizing the danger of being smoosh­ed by the snow­ plow. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve heard of an unfortunate tree or shrub meeting its end this way — so let’s be sure to clearly mark our beloved trees and keep them safe!

A good layer of mulch around trees to their drip edge can be applied or renewed at this time. Mulching will help conserve moisture and nutrients, moderate soil temperatures, encourage earthworms, and keep weeds in check. Bark mulch, pebbles, old sawdust, shredded leaves, untreated cardboard, newspaper, rotted manure, and compost are preferable to hay, which encourages rodents. Be sure to pull the mulch a few inches away from the trunk. If possible, try to delay pruning until late winter, unless removing dead or diseased parts of the tree (unless you have a tree or shrub that has specific pruning needs for this time). Pruning encourages growth, which is not what we want right now. New growth is especially tender and susceptible to winterkill. So hold off on most pruning and fertilizers, and put the trees to bed instead.

And let’s face it. It is rare to have 100 percent success in the garden. So let’s take stock and walk our plot, and examine each and every tree, shrub, vine, or specimen. It may be a good idea to make the tough decisions now. Is there a tree that looks sickly, a vine out of place, or a shrub which under-whelmed our expectations? Maybe it’s time to take action and make room for something else that will be worth it. Late autumn is an ideal time for this, since the vacancy may be prepared now for planting with fresh ideas in springtime.

And while we’re outside, let’s enjoy the wonderfully crisp air, welcoming Old Man Winter to our gardens!

by Emily Cates

Here comes autumn! It’s all around us — from the crisp, aromatic smells of wood smoke to the sight of falling leaves in the chilly air. There’s no denying that the cold is on its way. But isn’t this a most pleasant time of year to be outside? Aside from yellow jackets inebriated from the fallen apples, there is not a buzzing bug in sight to be concerned with. (But watch out for ticks!) And the chill in the air is refreshing when working vigorously outside. Let’s use this opportunity to get things done in the garden.

One of the most important tasks at hand is garden clean-up. Removing the remnants of plants such as frosted tomatoes, squash, and others will help reduce the incidence of pests and diseases in the garden. It’s also a good idea to do a thorough weeding: grubbing out all those pesky quack grass rhizomes and deep-rooted weeds such as burdock and dandelion. One helpful trick that makes getting rid of weeds easier is to till or hand-dig the area, let it rest for a few days or so until the new crop of weeds germinates, and then dig again. Got chickens? Corral them in this area and they will be happy to scratch it up for you. And they’ll add their own “contributions”. Another hint that helps with the weeds is to generously mulch the garden patch with shredded leaves, un-colored newspaper, straw, rotted hay, old sawdust, cardboard, bark mulch, or anything that does not contain weed seeds. Some folks even lay down old rugs and boards so that next spring when they’re pulled up, no weeds- and a soil that’s easy to work with. Oh, and let’s not forget to add nutrition at this time. If you have access to hay bedding from a goat pen, it will serve dual duty of being a decent mulch, with fertilizer “pellets” included. Garlic loves this!

Just because there was a frost doesn’t mean it’s over in the garden. Actually, it’s the prime time to plant garlic and cold-weather vegetables such as kale, and parsnips. With row covers, cold frames, hot beds, and hoop houses, the possibilities include greens, beets, radishes, kohlrabi, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, turnips, leeks, and carrots. Some veggies, such as carrots, Brussels sprouts, and parsnips, are much sweeter when harvested after a freeze- even in the snow! Give it a try if you get a chance.

Would you like to save some seeds of the harvest right now? Here are a few helpful tips to get started: Small amounts of seeds adequate for an average household can be harvested by hand. Try to save the healthiest, most productive, true-to type seeds from the “cream of the crop”. Unless you want a surprise, always save seeds from open-pollinated (non-hybrid) varieties that were not crossed with other varieties.

Generally, most seeds are ready to be saved after the mother plant has reached full maturity. Cucurbit family members (cucumbers, melons, squash, etc.) will be quite overripe and at the inedible stage. Fertile seeds of this type, when freshly harvested, will sink to the bottom of a cup of water. Save these ones and discard the floaters. Tomato seeds appreciate being fermented for a couple of days to dissipate a germination inhibitor- simply squeeze the tomato pulp into a cup, and wait until a layer of mold appears on the surface of the pulp.

This may take a day or two- but don’t wait too long or the seeds will sprout. When the gel capsules surrounding the seeds have broken down, pour fresh water into the cup. The good seeds will sink to the bottom of the cup, and the bad seeds and gunk will float. Pour off the impurities, repeat until clear, and rinse the seeds through a strainer.

Dry the cleaned seeds on a labeled paper plate, and voilà! Seeds from pod-bearing plants will be ready when the pod is completely dry. Try saving these types of seeds when the weather is arid, or pull the whole plant and hang under cover in a barn, outbuilding, or attic until the plant has dried. Seeds such as from beans, peas, corn, and squash are ready to store when they cannot be dented when applied pressure from a fingernail. These seeds and others can be stored dry in glass jars in the freezer for long term storage. (Just make sure to warm the jar at room temperature before opening so as to prevent condensation.) Bulbs, tubers, and rhizomes are the seed, such as with garlic, potatoes, and hops, respectively; oftentimes they keep best for planting when they have been thoroughly cured and stored away from light in a dry, cool (but not freezing) area. Really, a good rule of thumb for all seeds is to keep them dry and away from heat and light.

Hope you enjoy being productive in the garden!

Here comes autumn! It’s all around us — from the crisp, aromatic smells of wood smoke to the sight of falling leaves in the chilly air. There’s no denying that the cold is on its way. But isn’t this a most pleasant time of year to be outside? Aside from yellow jackets inebriated from the fallen apples, there is not a buzzing bug in sight to be concerned with. (But watch out for ticks!) And the chill in the air is refreshing when working vigorously outside. Let’s use this opportunity to get things done in the garden.

One of the most important tasks at hand is garden clean-up. Removing the remnants of plants such as frosted tomatoes, squash, and others will help reduce the incidence of pests and diseases in the garden. It’s also a good idea to do a thorough weeding: grubbing out all those pesky quack grass rhizomes and deep-rooted weeds such as burdock and dandelion. One helpful trick that makes getting rid of weeds easier is to till or hand-dig the area, let it rest for a few days or so until the new crop of weeds germinates, and then dig again. Got chickens? Corral them in this area and they will be happy to scratch it up for you. And they’ll add their own “contributions”. Another hint that helps with the weeds is to generously mulch the garden patch with shredded leaves, un-colored newspaper, straw, rotted hay, old sawdust, cardboard, bark mulch, or anything that does not contain weed seeds. Some folks even lay down old rugs and boards so that next spring when they’re pulled up, no weeds- and a soil that’s easy to work with. Oh, and let’s not forget to add nutrition at this time. If you have access to hay bedding from a goat pen, it will serve dual duty of being a decent mulch, with fertilizer “pellets” included. Garlic loves this!

Just because there was a frost doesn’t mean it’s over in the garden. Actually, it’s the prime time to plant garlic and cold-weather vegetables such as kale, and parsnips. With row covers, cold frames, hot beds, and hoop houses, the possibilities include greens, beets, radishes, kohlrabi, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, turnips, leeks, and carrots. Some veggies, such as carrots, Brussels sprouts, and parsnips, are much sweeter when harvested after a freeze- even in the snow! Give it a try if you get a chance.

Would you like to save some seeds of the harvest right now? Here are a few helpful tips to get started: Small amounts of seeds adequate for an average household can be harvested by hand. Try to save the healthiest, most productive, true-to type seeds from the “cream of the crop”. Unless you want a surprise, always save seeds from open-pollinated (non-hybrid) varieties that were not crossed with other varieties.

Generally, most seeds are ready to be saved after the mother plant has reached full maturity. Cucurbit family members (cucumbers, melons, squash, etc.) will be quite overripe and at the inedible stage. Fertile seeds of this type, when freshly harvested, will sink to the bottom of a cup of water. Save these ones and discard the floaters. Tomato seeds appreciate being fermented for a couple of days to dissipate a germination inhibitor- simply squeeze the tomato pulp into a cup, and wait until a layer of mold appears on the surface of the pulp.

This may take a day or two- but don’t wait too long or the seeds will sprout. When the gel capsules surrounding the seeds have broken down, pour fresh water into the cup. The good seeds will sink to the bottom of the cup, and the bad seeds and gunk will float. Pour off the impurities, repeat until clear, and rinse the seeds through a strainer.

Dry the cleaned seeds on a labeled paper plate, and voilà! Seeds from pod-bearing plants will be ready when the pod is completely dry. Try saving these types of seeds when the weather is arid, or pull the whole plant and hang under cover in a barn, outbuilding, or attic until the plant has dried. Seeds such as from beans, peas, corn, and squash are ready to store when they cannot be dented when applied pressure from a fingernail. These seeds and others can be stored dry in glass jars in the freezer for long term storage. (Just make sure to warm the jar at room temperature before opening so as to prevent condensation.) Bulbs, tubers, and rhizomes are the seed, such as with garlic, potatoes, and hops, respectively; oftentimes they keep best for planting when they have been thoroughly cured and stored away from light in a dry, cool (but not freezing) area. Really, a good rule of thumb for all seeds is to keep them dry and away from heat and light.

Hope you enjoy being productive in the garden!

by Emily Cates

“Swoop! Dive! Flap!” go their wings as they raid my beloved berry patch, their beaks voraciously plucking choice berries with no regard to how many backbreaking hours I’ve spent growing them. As I attempt to harvest the leftovers and shoo them away, the birds whiz by and release their droppings in what seems like a sinister game to deter me from “their” buffet. I can’t help but feel under attack!

Does this sound familiar to you? Most berry growers at some point have experienced competition from our flying feathered friends. This article was written for those of us who need tips on how to protect berries
from hungry birds, or at least to keep their damage to a minimum. The tricks up our sleeves include visual and auditory deterrents, netting, and other ideas that will hopefully help a hardworking gardener keep her sanity.

I’ll start with the least expensive option— visual deterrents. Materials that reflect sunlight and move around in a breeze may create an illusion of fire and frighten a bird away. Aluminum pie pans strategically hung around the garden work accordingly. “Flash tape”, a long strip of coated metallic material, has been quite effective in my garden – even for cedar waxwings. It is unrolled and strung slightly twisted from one side of the garden to the other in several parallel rows, or dangled from branches. FEDCO and Johnny’s carries it (and most of the products mentioned in this article), though a thicker, more effective version is found online.

“Scare balloons,” faux owls, and other predator facsimiles may or may not work as well as the real thing, and should be moved around often for maximum effect.

Now – thunderous drum roll, please! There is a product on the market that uses explosions to deter birds. No kidding! If you (and your neighborhood) like loud noises and bright flashes, it might be perfect for you. This thing-that-goes-boom attaches to a propane tank and intermittently blasts off at random, unpredictable intervals, terrifying every living creature in its vicinity. Let me know how it works for you.

Since birds such as cedar waxwings are bold and descend upon the berry patch in groups of several birds, they are especially difficult to control. And, no, you can’t just wait there for them with a .22, since songbirds are protected species. As annoying as it sounds, you actually have to place a barrier between the berries and the birds. Behold the bird netting! If you have just a few plants, it shouldn’t be a great big deal. More than a few, however, and it could become expensive. Just remember, though, that this might be the most effective method.

Another way to keep birds out of the berry patch includes planting native trees and shrubs that they prefer away from the garden. The idea is that they will be attracted to these instead of the garden, though I wonder if this will actually summon all the birds in the neighborhood to your spot. Serviceberries, as delicious as they are, can be especially problematic – as the cedar waxwings will decimate them before they’re even ripe and then move on to the berry patch. However, I’ve found that mulberry trees produce so many mulberries that there are usually enough to share.

Whatever deterrents are employed, it’s important to remember to use them before the berries begin to ripen. Once birds are established in the garden, they are harder to get rid of. If you need advice, the folks at the Maine Department of Inland Fisheries and Wildlife are a good place to call.

However, we enjoy our berries, may they NOT be for the birds!

by Emily Cates

Finally, after what seems like forever, the soil in the garden is ready to plant what we’ve all been waiting for: tasty tomatoes, sumptuous squashes, wonderful melons, among many more. After a tough winter and tardy spring, we’re going to make up for lost time. To get things growing, we have a few tricks up our sleeve. This time we’ll look at planting strategies and growth promoters.

This year’s planting season is definitely behind schedule by a couple weeks or so. But don’t despair, it should all catch up just fine with the right care. Early plantings, unless covered somehow with a hoop house or cold frame, won’t grow much faster than if they were planted when the soil warms up. So no worries for slacking this time.

However, I would certainly recommend planting long season, commonly direct-seeded veggies like corn, squash, beans, melons, pumpkins, and gourds right away. We definitely want them to have enough time to mature before our first frost in the fall. Tomato, pepper, eggplant, and others that are planted as seedlings will also appreciate being set out ASAP.

Cool-weather crops that are direct-seeded like peas and spinach have probably missed the boat as far as spring sowing goes, but will be happy to get a second chance to be planted in about a month for a fall harvest. Lettuce and salad greens like to chill in the shady part of the garden when summertime sizzles.

Black plastic mulch speeds up the growth of heat-loving plants and keeps weeds at bay. Also, floating row covers provide an added layer of warmth and protect plants from pests, providing the cover is removed when needed during pollination.

Most important is a nice, rich, healthy soil with adequate nutrients for the plants to grow fast enough to catch up. Liquid fish and seaweed fertilizers can be applied as directed. Compost and aged manure are great mixed into the garden or top-dressed as needed. I’ve read a ratio of 1:10 organic matter to soil, but heck, that seems minimal to me and I just load it on with fine results. Squash especially grows like crazy when planted in a manure pile, and that’s just what I want. Now if the weeds weren’t as enthused.